Advice please

[Mad4slalom]

Hi all, nearly ready to get the gearbox issue sorted, have new bolts for bearing support and complete muncie rebuild kit so ready for anything found. I wonder if anyone could write from experience a step by step procedure for removing either just gearbox, or engine and box together.
including what needs to com out of the interior etc to remove shifter etc .
I have a reverse lock out cable too.
I read somewhere about a certain sized bit of wood to put between motor and bulkhead when lowering back of motor to get box out. Some say bellhousing stays attached to box , others seperate and just pull box .
any advice very welcome. Want to send the box to clive the muncie specialist , pro build american in norfolkTiA

 

[Oneball]

Engine and box out together:

Drain coolant.
Disconnect gear linkage, reverse light, interlock and speedo cable from box
Disconnect prop shaft
Disconnect clutch cross shaft
Disconnect exhaust from headers
Disconnect earth and starter cable
Disconnect engine wiring
Disconnect fuel lines
Disconnect throttle cable
Disconnect oil pressure pipe
Remove dissy cap so you don’t break it
Remove carb if you’re using manifold to lift out, cover inlets
Remove coolant hoses
Remove fan shroud and fan
Remove bonnet
Remove radiator
Attach engine hoist if it’s not got enough reach from front go from side you’ll need to remove a wheel. Also ensure you have sufficient height I reckon you need over 8 foot maybe 10
Disconnect gearbox mount
Disconnect engine mount
Lift slightly so it clears gearbox cross member then lower the gearbox end by tilting and bring forward and tilt in stages till it clears the rad support.

Taking gearbox out is far less time but you do need the room under the car.

 

[Mad4slalom]

Engine and box out together:

Drain coolant.
Disconnect gear linkage, reverse light, interlock and speedo cable from box
Disconnect prop shaft
Disconnect clutch cross shaft
Disconnect exhaust from headers
Disconnect earth and starter cable
Disconnect engine wiring
Disconnect fuel lines
Disconnect throttle cable
Disconnect oil pressure pipe
Remove dissy cap so you don’t break it
Remove carb if you’re using manifold to lift out, cover inlets
Remove coolant hoses
Remove fan shroud and fan
Remove bonnet
Remove radiator
Attach engine hoist if it’s not got enough reach from front go from side you’ll need to remove a wheel. Also ensure you have sufficient height I reckon you need over 8 foot maybe 10
Disconnect gearbox mount
Disconnect engine mount
Lift slightly so it clears gearbox cross member then lower the gearbox end by tilting and bring forward and tilt in stages till it clears the rad support.

Taking gearbox out is far less time but you do need the room under the car.

Thanks oneball, will print that list and tick off as we go. Garage nowhere near ready yo do it here yet. So looking at other options. In the gearbox rebuild kit there is a steel rod or shaft , about 9 inches long , no steps , splines , holes or anything !!?? Any ideas? Unless its a tool to help install the new f and r roller bearing races

 

[Oneball]

Thanks oneball, will print that list and tick off as we go. Garage nowhere near ready yo do it here yet. So looking at other options. In the gearbox rebuild kit there is a steel rod or shaft , about 9 inches long , no steps , splines , holes or anything !!?? Any ideas? Unless its a tool to help install the new f and r roller bearing races

It’s the lay shaft

 

[richie500]

Here's an option I use https://yourmotorclub.co.uk/
Basically Allan the owner has a large industrial unit which is fitted with the latest 4 poster and 2 poster lifts which you can hire for a 1/2 day or full day.
He has all the tools you will probably need to do the job, he can store your car for a cost while its not being worked on.
However this is the Brucey bonus: he is an American Car Nut, so he is very helpful. So if you want him to do the full job he can at a reasonable price or if you do it yourself and just need a quick hand he wont charge. He is very switched on and rebuilt his trans am himself.
I ended up getting him to do my heater matrix as he quoted a great price and i would have probably taken twice as long.
Only down side for you is that he is in Plymouth.

 

[Mad4slalom]

Here's an option I use Your Motor Club
Basically Allan the owner has a large industrial unit which is fitted with the latest 4 poster and 2 poster lifts which you can hire for a 1/2 day or full day.
He has all the tools you will probably need to do the job, he can store your car for a cost while its not being worked on.
However this is the Brucey bonus: he is an American Car Nut, so he is very helpful. So if you want him to do the full job he can at a reasonable price or if you do it yourself and just need a quick hand he wont charge. He is very switched on and rebuilt his trans am himself.
I ended up getting him to do my heater matrix as he quoted a great price and i would have probably taken twice as long.
Only down side for you is that he is in Plymouth.

Thats great info and not that far away, 39miles

 

[Roscobbc]

Engine and box out together:

Drain coolant.
Disconnect gear linkage, reverse light, interlock and speedo cable from box
Disconnect prop shaft
Disconnect clutch cross shaft
Disconnect exhaust from headers
Disconnect earth and starter cable
Disconnect engine wiring
Disconnect fuel lines
Disconnect throttle cable
Disconnect oil pressure pipe
Remove dissy cap so you don’t break it
Remove carb if you’re using manifold to lift out, cover inlets
Remove coolant hoses
Remove fan shroud and fan
Remove bonnet
Remove radiator
Attach engine hoist if it’s not got enough reach from front go from side you’ll need to remove a wheel. Also ensure you have sufficient height I reckon you need over 8 foot maybe 10
Disconnect gearbox mount
Disconnect engine mount
Lift slightly so it clears gearbox cross member then lower the gearbox end by tilting and bring forward and tilt in stages till it clears the rad support.

Taking gearbox out is far less time but you do need the room under the car.

When using the engine crane (and especially on maximum 'stretch') make sure all 4 'legs' and wheels are on a solid (i.e concrete) surface. The cranes are just about on the limit of their balance point and can dig-in to soft ground and topple over, especially if you have engine + gearbox swinging away - and even more so if its a big block at the end of the gib.............you could ask me how I almost know.....

 

[Mad4slalom]

It’s the lay shaft

Have heard of a layshaft , not a clue what it does within a gearbox

When using the engine crane (and especially on maximum 'stretch') make sure all 4 'legs' and wheels are on a solid (i.e concrete) surface. The cranes are just about on the limit of their balance point and can dig-in to soft ground and topple over, especially if you have engine + gearbox swinging away - and even more so if its a big block at the end of the gib.............you could ask me how I almost know.....

i am more and more thinking just box out

 

[Oneball]

In a conventional box with pre engaged gears the Main shaft is the one that runs straight through the box and the gears are free to rotate. The lay shaft is one big lump with all the gears joined together. This transfers the drive from one gear on the main shaft to another to give you a change in ratio.
Top main shaft
Bottom lay shaft

 

[Mad4slalom]

In a conventional box with pre engaged gears the Main shaft is the one that runs straight through the box and the gears are free to rotate. The lay shaft is one big lump with all the gears joined together. This transfers the drive from one gear on the main shaft to another to give you a change in ratio.
Top main shaft
Bottom lay shaft
View attachment 12361

Ah thanks for that

 

[Baron von Del Boy]

Dammit.. got lost again, took a wrong turn and ended up in the wrong thread.. wheres the exit?