Dip main beam query

[Mad4slalom]

Hi again , been for a nice little sundowner cruise to the Headland hotel in Newquay this evening. Car looking lovely and drawing a lot of attention and admirers. On the way home I clicked the hi beam foot switch and all working but then noticed that after a few seconds the main beams would flash off and on again . Came home on low beam and checked again at home, yes, same again, after being on full beam for a few seconds they will go out.
these were english left hand dip replacement h4 lamps from CK when i got the vette. I am wondering if this is a faulty foot dip switch or are the lights more powerful and need a relay or a voltage regulator. I understood from scott that they were plug and play. Any similar experiences or suggestions appreciated . TiA

 

[Oneball]

The dip switch switches power between main and dip.

Dip and main are not lit at the same time. So if main is going off and you’ve then got dipped headlights it has to be the switch.

 

[Forrest Gump]

It could well be the thermal cut-out in the switch due to the high beam bulbs pulling more current than the switch can handle. Its quite a common issue - I had the same. Solution is to wire-in a relay for the main beam to reduce the current running through the switch.

 

[Chuffer]

I go with Forrest`s reply . Later C3`s like mine have a column mounted stalk for dip/main beam but the issue is the thermal cutout in the dash mounted headlight switch . Very very common problem . Love the piccies by the way , you were much better off down there in beautiful Cornwall than wet , miserable , muddy Silverstone .

 

[Mad4slalom]

It could well be the thermal cut-out in the switch due to the high beam bulbs pulling more current than the switch can handle. Its quite a common issue - I had the same. Solution is to wire-in a relay for the main beam to reduce the current running through the switch.

Thanks for the advice, scott is sending me down some inner sealed beam units which should draw less current I believe. I replaced the outers previously but they were H4 not sealed units. If that doesnt help I will get a relay fitted. I am getting a new dip switch too in case it is that .

 

[Emc]

Its the headlight switch, ,is it new

 

[Daytona Vette]

It is usually the Headlight Switch, the thermal cut out is operating because the current has increased, usually because of higher wattage bulbs, if that is the issue imo solve it with relays not downsizing the lamps for less luminence - I have all four headlighs come on as High or Low beam all with high output Halogen bulbs with the switch protected by two relays
I need to see the car in front before I pass it

 

[Mad4slalom]

Its the headlight switch, ,is it new

Thanks G , the headlamp switch is not new , in fact , I have pulled the knob and rod right out in my hand in the past. So maybe will change that as well.

 

[Mad4slalom]

I go with Forrest`s reply . Later C3`s like mine have a column mounted stalk for dip/main beam but the issue is the thermal cutout in the dash mounted headlight switch . Very very common problem . Love the piccies by the way , you were much better off down there in beautiful Cornwall than wet , miserable , muddy Silverstone .

The white building is the fistral golf course club house , all shut last night but floodlit, be rude to waste a photo opportunity.

 

[Chuffer]

The white building is the fistral golf course club house , all shut last night but floodlit, be rude to waste a photo opportunity.

Great shot ! Could almost be down town Miami . As for replacement light switches , I have changed my twice ans quality seems crap , just like the wiper switch I bought a while back .Probably cheap Chinese repro stuff !

 

[Mad4slalom]

Great shot ! Could almost be down town Miami . As for replacement light switches , I have changed my twice ans quality seems crap , just like the wiper switch I bought a while back .Probably cheap Chinese repro stuff !

Just lost the light or it could have looked like a 1972 corvette sales brochure
I have dimmer, and h/lamp switches and knob and sealed beams so have all bases covered. . May still need to fit a relay too

 

[Mad4slalom]

It is usually the Headlight Switch, the thermal cut out is operating because the current has increased, usually because of higher wattage bulbs, if that is the issue imo solve it with relays not downsizing the lamps for less luminence - I have all four headlighs come on as High or Low beam all with high output Halogen bulbs with the switch protected by two relays
I need to see the car in front before I pass it

Thanks for that DV, is there a particular relay or relays I should go for ?

 

[Daytona Vette]

Thanks for that DV, is there a particular relay or relays I should go for ?

That I do not know because I left it to an auto electrical company to install when I went all 4 low or high, but they only used one relay for one of the pairs of lights and not two, and then I experienced your issue and took the car to another outfit to check over the previous work and install the second relay for the other pair of lights
to be able to determine the capacity of the relay required, you will need to know the watts of the lamps used, hopefully someone more knowledgeable than I will be along shortly

 

[Custom exotics]

Your easiest option without the need for rewire or rely work would be to find some led style h4 replacement bulbs ! Super bright hardly any current draw ur switch will thank you for it

 

[Chuffer]

Your easiest option without the need for rewire or rely work would be to find some led style h4 replacement bulbs ! Super bright hardly any current draw ur switch will thank you for it

I am thinking of going that route too . If anyone on here as done it I would be interested to know how well they fit as saw on a US You Tube somewhere that they stand a little proud in the mountings .

 

[Mad4slalom]

Your easiest option without the need for rewire or rely work would be to find some led style h4 replacement bulbs ! Super bright hardly any current draw ur switch will thank you for it

Hey! Good call, I am all for going the easy route , will research those . Thank you

 

[Chuffer]

Hey! Good call, I am all for going the easy route , will research those . Thank you

Look forward to hearing what you come up with .

 

[Mad4slalom]

Your easiest option without the need for rewire or rely work would be to find some led style h4 replacement bulbs ! Super bright hardly any current draw ur switch will thank you for it

I had a quick look , any ideas which to go for as they rang fto 15 quid to 150 quid for a pair

 

[Custom exotics]

H4 9003 Led Headlight Bulbs, 12V 2400LM 6000K Cool White Brightness Super Bright H4 9003 Headlight Bulbs, 360° Adjustable Beam Pattern Conversion Kit for Car (Pack of 2) : Amazon.co.uk: Automotive

Buy H4 9003 Led Headlight Bulbs, 12V 2400LM 6000K Cool White Brightness Super Bright H4 9003 Headlight Bulbs, 360° Adjustable Beam Pattern Conversion Kit for Car (Pack of 2) at Amazon UK. Free delivery on eligible orders.

www.google.co.uk

Wouldn't go for anything expensive not sure if above link works not very good with computer stuff lol

 

[stealthyflatfish]

I heard that LED bulbs only, no good as they lose the beam pattern and spray light all over the place, it's the bulb and glass together that determines the beam pattern, I could be wrong just my 3p worth.
I upgraded my headlights with Phillips GT 200 xenon bulbs, same current draw, 2x luminance and straight swap in non sealed units, twice as bright in my garage, but never driven in dark they will have a shorter life span compared to halogen, but hay ho.
You would need three relays wired in to work the high and low been together, this is to stop the voltage drop through the wires and giving poor illumination this is because your dividing the voltage by four and not two. Also you need the relays in so you don't overload the light switches and burn them out.
I've got two extra relays in mine at present to stop the voltage drop and switch overload, I have the third relay in a box, but the wiring is in my head at present, hope that makes sense.