Mini Hi-Torque starter motor for C3 81

Daytona Vette

Well-known user
I have found some have the electrical connections in different places and by chance my last one had the connections situated further from the exhaust manifold - every little helps - whilst you are there a heat shield is a good idea, but not a heat shield blanket

Stateside Autoparts - Atherstone
Real Steel - Cowley
 

Chuffer

CCCUK Member
I fitted a high torque gear reduction starter on my 1980 C3 but ended up getting it from Ecklers USA . A straight forward fitting job to get correct gear mesh and lash with fly wheel ring plus no need for diode in the wiring harness as 1974 onwards don`t have ballast resistor or a points type distributor . Cost about £170 I seem to recall . A big improvement on the original `half ton` job and more air space around it as Daytona said . I also wrapped exhaust in that area for greater protection against heat soak too.
 

RobsVette

CCCUK Member
I fitted a high torque gear reduction starter on my 1980 C3 but ended up getting it from Ecklers USA . A straight forward fitting job to get correct gear mesh and lash with fly wheel ring plus no need for diode in the wiring harness as 1974 onwards don`t have ballast resistor or a points type distributor . Cost about £170 I seem to recall . A big improvement on the original `half ton` job and more air space around it as Daytona said . I also wrapped exhaust in that area for greater protection against heat soak too.

Thanks
 

Dellb

CCCUK Member
I got mine from real steel. Lifted in with one hand, tightened the bolts with the other.
One point however, there is no R terminal, so you will need a diode if your setup requires it.
 

Dellb

CCCUK Member
Oh. Don’t wish to teach a granny to suck eggs, but don’t forget to specify if your block has offset starter bolts.
 

Oneball

CCCUK Member
I got mine from real steel. Lifted in with one hand, tightened the bolts with the other.
One point however, there is no R terminal, so you will need a diode if your setup requires it.

Is that to compensate for the ballast resistor bypass on start up?

Which one did you go for Real Steel list a couple?
 

Dellb

CCCUK Member
Yep
It is to compensate for he bypass on the ballast resistor.
I,ll send details tomorrow when I crawl underneath. One other point, is the fact that the one I got can be set at a number of different positions which really helps getting it clear of the header.
 

Dellb

CCCUK Member
I Went for the BY9112. But don’t forget I have the offset bolt pattern. Interestingly, I got the diode kit from Amazon.
 
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