Recommendation for a suitable "one man" brake bleeding kit

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Paul Benton

CCCUK Member
Can anyone suggest a decent and effective brake bleeding kit for my 1970 corvette, any tips welcome as the system is empty of fluid at the moment after a rebuild and this is the first time I have done this job.

Kind regards
Paul
 
Oneball

Oneball

CCCUK Member
You’re a bit stuck with the C3 master cylinder limiting you to a suction type. If you’ve got a compressor there’s a load of options. If you haven’t most of the hand operated suction types are hard work but I have used a Mityvac one successfully. It is easier to get a mate and do it the old fashioned way.
 
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Paul Benton

CCCUK Member
Did you need to bench fill the master cylinder first using this or can you just keep topping it up the master cylinder in place with fluid until brakes are firm?
As I did remove the master cylinder during a rebuild its now back in place but dry of fluid.
 
Oneball

Oneball

CCCUK Member
Not used it on the Vette yet.

But have used it on lots of rebuilds and never had to bench fill. Usually I find you have to go round a couple of times from dry and press the pedal every now and again.

The only trouble I’ve ever had was a Kawasaki where the bleed nipple on the caliper wasn’t at the top so it kept a bit of air in it.
 
Roscobbc

Roscobbc

Moderator
I know this will sound like a real Heath Robinson kinda bodge but I use my own one person 'pressure' bleeding method. Simply pump-up the brake pedal till it gets sufficient pressure to give a firm pedal hold down with your foot - then using a previously selected (for length and fit) broomstick wedged between the seat-back and brake pedal to hold the pressure - simply (and slowly) crank open the respective bleed nipple (with your tubing lead-in to a jar) to bleed-off. Yes, OK you'll need to keep checking the master cylinder level and pumping-up the brake pedal and wedging with the broom handle again.......but you have nothing much else to do.....right? and it prevents hearing those odd sqwalking sounds you get when asking 'er indoors' to push your pedal down....(and that isn't a euphemism for someone very personal!)
 
Oneball

Oneball

CCCUK Member
Roscobbc said:
I know this will sound like a real Heath Robinson kinda bodge but I use my own one person 'pressure' bleeding method. Simply pump-up the brake pedal till it gets sufficient pressure to give a firm pedal hold down with your foot - then using a previously selected (for length and fit) broomstick wedged between the seat-back and brake pedal to hold the pressure - simply (and slowly) crank open the respective bleed nipple (with your tubing lead-in to a jar) to bleed-off. Yes, OK you'll need to keep checking the master cylinder level and pumping-up the brake pedal and wedging with the broom handle again.......but you have nothing much else to do.....right? and it prevents hearing those odd sqwalking sounds you get when asking 'er indoors' to push your pedal down....(and that isn't a euphemism for someone very personal!)
Click to expand...

Used to use one of those extendable crook locks for that (y)
 
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uncle albert

Well-known user
On "you tube" ,there is a tutorial,by an American chap..who gravity bleeds the c3 brakes. He jacks the front higher than the rear,and just lets the fluid flow out until there are no more bubbles. He doesn't once touch the brake pedal...…..
 
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Alben78

Well-known user
Tried the gravity bleeding on a number of occasions but it always seem to take ages and still leaves a soft pedal. For a completely empty system I have used a Mityvac (or cheap substitute) to get fluid int each caliper and then a final bleed using the 2 person method. That seems to work every time and gives a good pedal feel. I have not experienced the seemingly common problem with the proportioning valve - yet.
 
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