Clutch cross shaft query

[Mad4slalom]

Hi all ,I get a little rattle from my clutch pedal , if i gentle put a bit of pessue on the pedal then it goes completely.
i can rattle the shaft by hand , it has a grease nipple, how much grease should i pump in ? Do i fill it right up so it cant rattle? Or will it just push out the ends of the shaft? The felts etc all seem in good order. My two anti rattle springs are in place. Any suggestions welcome .TiA.

 

[antijam]

I have a similar problem. In my case, having eliminated all the other possibilities I can think of, it's probably incorrect fitting of the throwout bearing spring clip.....


.....but that's a transmission out job, so it's waiting for more serious problems to arise.

The clutch 'Z' shaft is hollow so how much grease you need to pump in depends how much is already in there. If it's full, a couple of squirts should suffice. If it's empty you'll need a can full.
The shaft shouldn't rattle. If it does the ball studs that support it at both ends are probably worn and need replacing, together with the plastic seats at the chassis end. It's also worth checking that the studs are tight in the block and the chassis bracket.

 

[Mad4slalom]

I have a similar problem. In my case, having eliminated all the other possibilities I can think of, it's probably incorrect fitting of he throwout bearing spring clip.....

View attachment 16661
.....but that's a transmission out job, so it's waiting for more serious problems to arise.

The clutch 'Z' shaft is hollow so how much grease you need to pump in depends how much is already in there. If it's full, a couple of squirts should suffice. If it's empty you'll need a can full.
The shaft shouldn't rattle. If it does the ball studs that support it at both ends are probably worn and need replacing, together with the plastic seats at the chassis end. It's also worth checking that the studs are tight in the block and the chassis bracket.

Thanks antijam, I will get some grease in there then. Can I access the stud’s in situ with an open ended spanner? I will check for wear on the studs too.
many thanks

 

[antijam]

You can access both studs in situ. The block stud is screwed directly into the block and the other end is secured with a nut. This post includes a diagram of the Z bar. assembly

 

[Mad4slalom]

Great info antijam , thank you. I had a sloppy pedal when I first got the car and found the cross shaft moving up and down in its mount due to nut being finger tight, it came loose again soon after tightening , i will check it all again. Many thanks

 

[Roscobbc]

"Z' BAR isn't exactly a thing of great science is it?. Poly engine mounts give it an easier life and less engine on/off torque created deflection. I have seen a rose jointed replacement assembly on line somewhere or other.....

 

[Mad4slalom]

"Z' BAR isn't exactly a thing of great science is it?. Poly engine mounts give it an easier life and less engine on/off torque created deflection. I have seen a rose jointed replacement assembly on line somewhere or other.....