Mr. Cricket
Committee Member
I shone a light inside the dizzy cap to look for any hairline cracks and got nothing. It looks to be brand new. Looking on the CF it seems to be 50/50 for and against electronic points and their failure rate
1965 L79 Just started back firing
- Thread starter Mr. Cricket
- Start date
Mr. Cricket
Committee Member
Getting nowhere fast in the garage so checked out the Pertronix site and found a trouble shooting page. The highlighted first para pretty much describes my issue so I'm going to try the wire it straight to the battery + and see if that works as a test. If not I'll order a replacement module.
Bugger
Bugger
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Mr. Cricket
Committee Member
Nothing different new module ordered.
Mr. Cricket
Committee Member
was to be the next job but on the verge of frostbite so will give that a look tomorrow. Thought I was onto something when I wired the + lead to the battery it has an outer sleeve was all limp like it had a break in the wire but it had continuity so checked out ok
Mr. Cricket
Committee Member
Roscobbc
Moderator
Would have thought that there would have been earlier indicators of a 'wiped' camshaft issue? - but a consideration I guess?
Mr. Cricket
Committee Member
I had reason to speak to Paul the mechanic that looked after the classic car collection that included the 1971 ZR2 we had at the Lakes last year. Also a SWC, Lambo Miura, E Types and so on so while on the blower to him I mentioned the car and issues and he's pretty confident that the needle is stuck and the engine flooded. So tomorrow I'm going to remove a plug and get a replacement set then on Thursday me and a mate are going to strip it all down and change the plugs, clean all contacts on the starter, points, dizzy - everything. While the plugs are out we'll disconnect the coil and crank it foot hard down for 20 secs then add some fuel system cleaner to hopefully clear any ethanol induced crap in the needle.
Mr. Cricket
Committee Member
I have a new old stock OEM cam for my LT-1 doing nowt. I bought it when one time I had a problem with the LT-1 that sounded like a wiped lobe. Turned out it was just a loose rocker on E4. Didn't sound like anything this one's gone through though
Mr. Cricket
Committee Member
Mr. Cricket
Committee Member
Blimey, had a right lesson on spark plugs this morning and who knew there are so many critical options. Plug removed is resisted NGK R BR6S and with a Pertronix Flame Thrower 2 electronic ignition Pertronix say they should be non-resisted?
Oneball
CCCUK Member
I think they’ll be talking about coils not plugs. I can’t see a resistor plug making a difference. I still think you’ve got a carb issue.
Have you pulled an HT lead off and checked for a spark?
Mr. Cricket
Committee Member
No defo the plugs as I was on a call to the little green spark plug company Prestolite / The Green Spark Plug Co when he (Johnathan) asked what type were in the car and what ignition set up I had. He figured they should be non resistor so that prompted a call to Pertronix and straight off the bat he said with a flame thrower 2 you should have non resistor plugs agreeing with the spark plug man. What could be the downside of having resistor plugs in for I don't know how long I asked and failure of the pertronix module and coil were his answer.
I agree that there could be a carb issue and I don't know what fuel has been in this and for how long. I have an Esso in the village so only use their Supreme or failing that Shell Ultra but it could have had ethanol laden fuel in prior to me getting it.
Might get a chance later to check for a spark but failing that me and Graham are going through all of it on Thursday
I agree that there could be a carb issue and I don't know what fuel has been in this and for how long. I have an Esso in the village so only use their Supreme or failing that Shell Ultra but it could have had ethanol laden fuel in prior to me getting it.
Might get a chance later to check for a spark but failing that me and Graham are going through all of it on Thursday
antijam
CCCUK Member
...and I called them just after you - it was small block déja vu day for them!
teamzr1
Supporting vendor
IF the spark plug model # has an R in it, then it has a resister
Also keep in mind sparkplug wires can come with also an RFI reducer, so not mix R with each other
At the moment the spark jumps the gap, it causes a high frequency burst of energy, known as RFI (radio frequency interference). RFI, as its name suggests, creates static on your radio and interference with other electronic equipment, including the vehicle’s on-board electronic control units (ECUs) and be heard with radio output
The resistors are there to smooth out the “arc” that a spark plug makes as it fires.
Resistor plugs were developed in the 1960s to suppress some of the spark energy, thus lowering RFI to an acceptable level.
Most resistor spark plugs use a monolithic resistor, generally made of graphite and glass materials, to filter the electrical voltage as it passes through the center electrode.
Since resistor type plugs actually “resist” some of the spark energy, non-resistor type plugs actually deliver a more powerful spark.
It is for this reason that most racing plugs are non-resistor types.
However, in most automotive applications, a resistor plug is required for proper vehicle operation.
Use of non-resistor plugs in vehicles that call for a resistor type can result in rough idling, high-rpm misfire, and abnormal combustion.
Typically, the resistor in the center electrode of a resistor spark plug will be around 4000 to 6000 ohms.
To check the spark plug resistance, you can use a multimeter and measure the ohm reading by placing the leads on the terminal and the tip.
So in short if the car has limited electronics and want the highest spark then do not use R type plug or wires
If the RFI affects older car radios then use R rated plugs or plug wires but not both at the same time
Also keep in mind sparkplug wires can come with also an RFI reducer, so not mix R with each other
At the moment the spark jumps the gap, it causes a high frequency burst of energy, known as RFI (radio frequency interference). RFI, as its name suggests, creates static on your radio and interference with other electronic equipment, including the vehicle’s on-board electronic control units (ECUs) and be heard with radio output
The resistors are there to smooth out the “arc” that a spark plug makes as it fires.
Resistor plugs were developed in the 1960s to suppress some of the spark energy, thus lowering RFI to an acceptable level.
Most resistor spark plugs use a monolithic resistor, generally made of graphite and glass materials, to filter the electrical voltage as it passes through the center electrode.
Since resistor type plugs actually “resist” some of the spark energy, non-resistor type plugs actually deliver a more powerful spark.
It is for this reason that most racing plugs are non-resistor types.
However, in most automotive applications, a resistor plug is required for proper vehicle operation.
Use of non-resistor plugs in vehicles that call for a resistor type can result in rough idling, high-rpm misfire, and abnormal combustion.
Typically, the resistor in the center electrode of a resistor spark plug will be around 4000 to 6000 ohms.
To check the spark plug resistance, you can use a multimeter and measure the ohm reading by placing the leads on the terminal and the tip.
So in short if the car has limited electronics and want the highest spark then do not use R type plug or wires
If the RFI affects older car radios then use R rated plugs or plug wires but not both at the same time
Mr. Cricket
Committee Member
Did you speak to Johnathan who is clearly quite passionate about spark plugs!?
I made the mistake of watching Bitchin Rides last night where they were tasked with finding out the issue with a very high $$$ '35 hot rod that wouldn't run. Checked the coil, dizzy then pulled the distributer and used an endoscope to look in the sump and found all manner of metal that shouldn't be there. Result pulled engine for ground up rebuild
