1998 C5 Radiator

C5Steve

CCCUK Member
I located the 2 TPMS magnets I have
The GM one is from Kent-More with this model number


View attachment 29069
When I did mine. I just searched for Neodymium magnets on Amazon/eBay and picked one up that looked exactly like one of these but just unbranded. I did get one with a hole in (donut shaped) but found it worked better if I held the magnet next to the valve stem. Kind of trial and error but didn't take long to work out.
 

VantaR

Busy user
Hey guys!

Okay cool, just a few quick questions.

The Kent Moore one I can't find in the UK, and that amazon link for the official Schrader one doesn't deliver to the UK. A few eBay vendors with the same magnet also wouldn't deliver!

FIVE RED, that welding magnet looks good, I imagine it's magnetic around the hole too? Which size do I go for? I'd imagine stronger is better but I think they go up in size and may defeat the purpose.

My current magnet is a Neodymium fishing magnet which is very strong but probably slightly too big to fit around the stem. Just curious... should I be FEELING a magnetic pull like I did with the one that was out of the box?? It just felt like this magnet wasn't catching anything around the wheel once the TPMS was in the wheel...WhatsApp Image 2025-01-18 at 18.56.39_3b2694ce.jpg

I'll look for a donut one but for now.. I keep seeing this pop up when I give it a search, it's fairly cheap but would it do the job??


Thanks guys!
 

Blackzed

CCCUK Member
That would work on a C6 onwards, not on a C5.
If you can get hold of a knackered microwave oven, then you can take
the two magnets out of the magnetron. That would work as they have a hole in them.
 

teamzr1

Supporting vendor
For C5s, you need the magnet, the electronic TPMS tools are for newer designed TPMS that can work with C5s
More clearly, stock TPMS for C5s magnet must be used
If 3rd prty ones stated working with C5s but instead of a magnet to sync them to the remote controller uses a electronic TPMS tool
that awakes the sensor and also programs them

The tire pressure monitoring system for 97-00 cars differs from the 01-04 C5s, and the latter further differs from the C6.
All of them use 315 MHz for US cars and 433 for European ones

Caution ! Do not read this while drunk, as it could make you puke ! :)

Part 1 - Receiver Module


The RFA or remote function adapter module in the C5 is responsible for receiving telemetry packets from the four tires sensors, keeping track of the sensor’s learned unique identifiers, as well as performing similar tasks for the vehicle’s remote entry fobs.
When data is received from any of these inputs it then transmits data on the class 2 serial bus (aka ALDL) to other modules.

The early model C5 RFA modules were configured to accept a certain frequency and encoding of data, the domestic RFA modules for the 97-00 Corvettes were configured to decode transmissions on 315mhz using ASK or amplitude shift keying modulation.
This modulation would be synonymous with how AM broadcast radio modulates the analog audio signal. Starting with 01, the remaining model years of the C5 switched to FSK or frequency shift keying modulation, also on the 315mhz center frequency.
It should surprise no-one that FSK modulation is likewise synonymous with FM broadcast radio where changes in frequency around a center frequency is used to modulate / encode the analog (in our case digital) signal.

This all may sound extremely complicated, and at the technical level it is. But for those of us just wanting to make the ‘service tire monitor’ warning go away, it doesn’t need to be!

Domestic” Disclaimer:

If you took notice of the word “domestic” in the 2nd previous paragraph, here’s its relevance. In most production years, GM produced a substantial number of C5s that were destined for export to foreign markets. I’m not entirely clear on all the details, but one of importance to us is that at the time 315mhz was a regulated frequency in Europe, and possibly Japan, and those vehicles would have been equipped with RFA modules set to receive TPMS telemetry on the 433mhz frequency, as well as being equipped with similarly capable tire sensors.
This detail becomes important if you’re trying to replace sensors in a car that was built for export to these markets, as the North American 315mhz sensors simply won’t get you anywhere.

RFA Module Swaps

While we’re discussing the RFA module it would be wise to bring up the subject of module swaps as the older ASK modulation sensors and key fobs began to become more difficult (and expensive) to source, some owners opted to swap the RFA module from a 01-04 C5 into their early model C5.
One would have to research the part #s further to be certain, but this is something to consider if you’re working on a vehicle with an unknown past.

Part 2 – Programming, Training or Relearn
Let’s clear up the differences.

Training / Relearn

Overwhelmingly in the context of replacing sensors, we will be training or relearning.
The process by which this happens can be initiated from the DIC with the following (condensed) sequence:

1) with key on, engine off clear any DIC messages with the ‘reset’ button
2) press the ‘options’ button repeatedly until the DIC display goes blank
3) press and hold the ‘reset’ button until ‘FOB TRAINING’ diplays on the DIC
4) press the ‘options’ button again until ‘TIRE TRAINING’ displays on the DIC
5) press the ‘reset’ button – if vehicle is so equipped / configured ‘LEARN L FRONT TIRE’ will display along with the horn sounding
6) trigger the sensor in each tire with a suitable trigger device in a clockwise manner… (yada yada)
7) the horn honks twice signaling the process is complete


Sensor relearn can also be initiated by a scan tool via the class 2 serial bus (aka ALDL) with a device such as a Tech 2 or similar.
Both scenarios trigger the same condition. What’s important is what happens next.

Once the RFA module receives the proper sequence of instructions from the class 2 serial bus, it switches into relearn mode.
This can be for a new / replacement / additional key fob, or a new set of tire sensors or a new arrangement of sensors (for instance after having rotated tire locations).

When the relearn mode requested is for tire sensors, the RFA is instructed to listen for transmissions from tire sensors on it’s allocated frequency, modulation and encoding configuration.
When it decodes a valid unique transmission it hasn’t already heard during the current relearn session, it assigns that sensor’s unique identifier to a location in RAM (temporary memory) in the order of driver’s front, passenger’s front, passenger’s rear, and finally driver’s rear.
Each time a location is “learned” it sends a message to the BCM to honk the horn to alert the user that a valid sensor was learned, and to move to the next location. When all four locations have been relearned it stores the sensor identifiers semi-permanently in eeprom and instructs the BCM to honk the horn twice to signify a successful relearning sequence.

This may be the most important bit of information to take in here during the relearn sequence the technician (you) must somehow instruct the sensors attached to the valve stems to wake up and transmit their telemetry packet.
 

teamzr1

Supporting vendor
How this is done is fairly inconsequential, but in my observations it has become apparent that the prevailing wisdom is that for all C5 Corvettes this must be initiated by placing a magnet in proximity to the tire pressure sensor.
This assumption is not completely inaccurate, and depends entirely on what type of sensor is installed in each wheel (the subtext here is there are four, and there could be several different types of sensors installed at each location).

You might ask, how do I know what type of sensors are installed?
The answer is you can either find out via trial-and-error, have the tire beads broken down and inspect the sensors, or you can do what I would strongly recommend for a vehicle this old and simply have them all replaced with sensors of known origin and compatibility.

Programming

Unfortunately, a lot of online documentation incorrectly refers to the process of training / relearning as “programming”. To further complicate the matter, most modern sensors can be programmed with different configuration options, such as changing the unique ID, the type of telemetry data transmitted, and even the frequency and modulation techniques. In fact, it is possible to purchase universal, programmable sensors that are shipped without any configuration which must be programmed with a configuration before they will do anything.

Most programmable sensors are capable of being programmed wirelessly using the same 120khz signal that’s used to trigger them. Some however are also capable of being programmed in a cradle using physical electrical contacts that talk to the sensor’s processor over a serial protocol / UART (universal asynchronous receiver / transmitter).
These type of sensors are in my opinion highly preferable over ones only wirelessly programmable. The reason for this is that the programming device can also provide power to the sensor during programming, whereas the wireless variety must use power from the internal battery for said process. As these batteries are typically not easily replaced, this is detrimental because this programming process comes at the potential cost of several years worth of battery life to complete.

Part 3 – Trigger Sources

You might ask what causes a tire pressure sensor to wake up and transmit it’s telemetry data?

Early models such as the ones our cars were originally equipped with had two possible trigger sources. During normal driving conditions, an inertia switch was responsible for triggering the sensor’s internal processor to wake and transmit its telemetry periodically. They were also equipped with a reed switch, which is a type of switch that closes it’s contacts when in proximity to a strong magnetic field.

As the technology evolved, sensors sometimes included logic and / or receivers that would wake the processor if the measured tire pressure changed rapidly, or if a low-frequency radio signal was received (typically 120khz).

As of 2024, almost all tire pressure sensors designed for current technology standards respond solely to the 120khz radio frequency signal and inertia. These120khz trigger devices are widely available from all the usual internet selling sites.
A quick search for “tpms tool” on several of them show a device that looks entirely identical for as little as $3.00 and as much as $39.00.

The colors and item descriptions may vary with manufacturer compatibility and nonsense like "2024 Edition" which may be confusing, but specific part #s such as "OEC-T5", "EL-50448" and "GL50448" all do the exact same thing. If all you're wanting is a simple trigger tool, pay no attention to your specific vehicle being listed in the compatibility matrix. The tool doesn't communicate with the car, it communicates only with the sensor.
Also, anything more expensive will likely have other capabilities that are generally not needed for GM TPMS work.

You might ask “why do I need to know all this nonsense?”

If you’ve owned your C5 since new and have meticulously kept track of what tire pressure sensors have been installed in your wheels, then you probably don’t.

For most others, it’s safe to assume you have no idea what type of pressure sensors are installed in your wheels. As such it’s good to be educated on what the possibilities / requirements are to trigger any type of sensor, lest you end up having to take it to “the guy” and have the tires popped off the rims.

Physical Varieties

Aside from compatibility details relevant to the digital telemetry data, there are generally two different types of physical sensor varieties – ones with clamp-in stems and ones with pop-in rubber stems. There is no real difference most rims will accept either type. There are even some universal sensors that can be mounted on either type of valve stem.
Unless I’m fighting with a problem getting one type of stem to seal in a particular (and usually old and corroded) rim, I simply prefer pop-in stems. My reasoning is they’re always simple to remove. Additionally, aluminum clamp-in stems can sometimes become difficult to remove after years of exposure to corrosive conditions that can cause the clamping nuts to seize to the stems and necessitate removal by drilling.

Final Bits of Advice

This is the easiest part for me. If you’re buying sensors on your own and having them installed with (or without) a tire change...

1) Always, always, always attempt to learn the sensors to the car before having them installed. If they can’t be relearned by the RFA investigate the problem with the seller / vendor. I’ve personally never seen a sensor that could be triggered by either magnet or RF that wouldn’t transmit at atmospheric (0 psi).
2) Document what sensors you have purchased, and take a picture of them, preferably before having them installed!
3) Don’t assume the tire j
ockeys will know more about the technology than you do after reading this
 

VantaR

Busy user
Wow incredibly informative as always!

I've had a read and yes, definitely correct in the differentiation between the euro and US spec. I can confirm that as my car is a euro spec I have the 433.92MHZ sensors. Actually the new one I had fitted I used a magnet on before I installed and it synced up perfectly, I didn't bother asking them to relearn etc as It was fairly simple in a few seconds whilst the magnet was out of the wheel. Just having a little trouble with it in the wheel!

I'm not sure if updating to the newer receiver system is worth the hassle to be honest.. seeing as the rest of the units seem to be working well! Looks like I just need to give it another crack with the magnet I have.

Failing all of the above. What donut magnet can I get from Amazon or eBay that would work? I've seen a few donut ones but none in Neodymium! (earth magnet)

Would this work?


Also totally random but just a little bit of foreshadowing here. If the back two TPMS aren't reading until driving up the road, does that mean I'm going to continue getting the SERV TYRE MON SYS error on start up??? I get that the battery is probably on it's last legs but they still work. and £200 + shippping + installation for the pair just seems a little wasteful!
 

teamzr1

Supporting vendor
Sounds like with the remote controller not gets a sync signal from the TPMSs is cause of the service warning coming on

Keep in mind the valve stem is for sensing signals to the controller and the magnet function is in the body of the sensor
so you want your magnet to cover more by the sidewall close to where the body of the sensor is, and it may take a bit of time for that
to work with the sensor

Of course if the sensor battery is too low than its signal to the controller would be too weak to work correctly
If the magnet is an earth type, it should work if closer to the body of sensor
Maybe close to sidewall and move magnet very slowly back/forth would work

C5TPMS.jpg
 

C5Steve

CCCUK Member
Wow incredibly informative as always!

I've had a read and yes, definitely correct in the differentiation between the euro and US spec. I can confirm that as my car is a euro spec I have the 433.92MHZ sensors. Actually the new one I had fitted I used a magnet on before I installed and it synced up perfectly, I didn't bother asking them to relearn etc as It was fairly simple in a few seconds whilst the magnet was out of the wheel. Just having a little trouble with it in the wheel!

I'm not sure if updating to the newer receiver system is worth the hassle to be honest.. seeing as the rest of the units seem to be working well! Looks like I just need to give it another crack with the magnet I have.

Failing all of the above. What donut magnet can I get from Amazon or eBay that would work? I've seen a few donut ones but none in Neodymium! (earth magnet)

Would this work?


Also totally random but just a little bit of foreshadowing here. If the back two TPMS aren't reading until driving up the road, does that mean I'm going to continue getting the SERV TYRE MON SYS error on start up??? I get that the battery is probably on it's last legs but they still work. and £200 + shippping + installation for the pair just seems a little wasteful!
That magnet probably isn't strong enough, you want something like this

 

C5Steve

CCCUK Member
Found the one I bought...

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This worked perfectly. Like I said I'm pretty sure for one or two of the wheel moving it around NEXT to the valve stem worked better than having it over the stem but it's been quite a few years! Wasn't that tough to register them though, probably took 10 mins.
 

Blackzed

CCCUK Member
Go to your local tyre place, they carry tpms, and they will fit and sync them all.
Show them the way to do it, and if possible print out how to do it.
It's not rocket science, they fit them all the time, if it's the right frequency and they know how to do it, job jobbed.
Had mine changed at various times in my C5, and now my C6 Z06, it will be easy for them, it's not black magic that is special for Corvettes.
 
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