Make sure you get a good brand of wheel hub, Timken, SKF or ACDelco. Don't buy cheap otherwise you will be doing them again soon.Thanks clever people-i have all the parts i need now. The car is so ridiculously low that it needs to be done on a pit or ramp. Yesterday it failed its MOT on front ball joints and rear play in the wheels (wobbly)- they said hubs- so onwards and upwards
Outside Temperature Sensor |
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Hello- quick update:- my car is back from the garage having passed its MOT- so thank you to everyone for your help with the ball joints and bearings.
While at the garage the radiator (5.7-L98 C4 base 1989) is said to have failed dramatically from the plastic side jacket. They fitted a new one i gave them with new upper and lower hoses and coolant. They say the sensor on the top right of the rad was destroyed in the blast and needs to be replaced. May i ask what that sensor is called which goes into the rad? The connecting wire to it is currently hanging loose. Please could you guys kindly post a link to what i need on rockauto?
Is it an outside temp sensor? What does it do/prevent?
Outside Temperature Sensor
- 4400 Ohms @ 60 F, 2200 Ohms @ 85 F. Right side of engine, top right corner of radiator
Even with a new rad; without this sensor the car now runs super hot at over 224°F. It is back disgracing itself publicly by boiling its coolant header tank like the bad old days even with the super cold air temperature today.
Steam was rising from the right headlamp like a giant locomotive causing everyone in the petrol station to fear it was on fire!
It also now stutters when you open the throttle wide open.
Your previous advice to fit the 180deg thermostat is noted- i have the part and will fit over xmas.
While at rockauto online, should l also replace the 2 engine block coolant sensors to get the fans running at a lower temp? (i dont know if the fans work at all)
I am not sure how well these work as the ECU turns the fan on and that is set in the "software". You can do it by re writing the ECU but that's beyond me.(in a you tube video i watched the guy used lower temperature replacement engine coolant sensors screwed into the block?)
View attachment 28817
View attachment 28818
The file has come through, just opened itAs to temps
1. ECT is mounted in engine, if the coolant temp gauge in dash works correctly then not your issue
2. low coolant sensor would be mounted low and would trip warning on dash if low level
3, I suspect your issue could be the temp sensor for the HVAC
Look at the screen for HVAC and sees if showing the correct outside temp
That is used when using the auto mode of HVAC to determine what mode to go to and in part needs outside temp reading
If I recall that sensor is on right side of radiator
Attached below, I have included a r4 owner's manual and the GM engineering 183 pages PDF
Damn, this forum limits file sizes of attachments so if you do not have the owner's manual that explains HVAC and outside temps
then I would need your email address to email a Cr4 owner's manual
The file has come through, just opened it
I am not sure how well these work as the ECU turns the fan on and that is set in the "software". You can do it by re writing the ECU but that's beyond me.
The main fan is switched by a relay controlled by the ECU, this has a permanent positive supply and the ECU switches negative to it turning on the fan.
I have fitted an extra thermostatic controller that supplies the negative at whatever temperature I set it at.
The beauty is that if my thermostat fails the ECU will still turn the fan on at 225°F and turning the AC also turns the fan on, win, win in my book.
Hello- quick update:- my car is back from the garage having passed its MOT- so thank you to everyone for your help with the ball joints and bearings.
While at the garage the radiator (5.7-L98 C4 base 1989) is said to have failed dramatically from the plastic side jacket. They fitted a new one i gave them with new upper and lower hoses and coolant. They say the sensor on the top right of the rad was destroyed in the blast and needs to be replaced. May i ask what that sensor is called which goes into the rad? The connecting wire to it is currently hanging loose. Please could you guys kindly post a link to what i need on rockauto?
Is it an outside temp sensor? What does it do/prevent?
Outside Temperature Sensor
- 4400 Ohms @ 60 F, 2200 Ohms @ 85 F. Right side of engine, top right corner of radiator
Even with a new rad; without this sensor the car now runs super hot at over 224°F. It is back disgracing itself publicly by boiling its coolant header tank like the bad old days even with the super cold air temperature today.
Steam was rising from the right headlamp like a giant locomotive causing everyone in the petrol station to fear it was on fire!
It also now stutters when you open the throttle wide open.
Your previous advice to fit the 180deg thermostat is noted- i have the part and will fit over xmas.
While at rockauto online, should l also replace the 2 engine block coolant sensors to get the fans running at a lower temp? (i dont know if the fans work at all)
What kind of E-Prom burner is required to do that ?I can change when the coolant fans are commanded on or off, with A/C on or off within the calibration in the ECM
Calibration is stored in an E-prom
If someone in the UK needed custom tuning for OBD-I GM like C4s I can do the tune and email to them
but they need access to a E-prom burner to flash my tune into the E-prom and swap it with the GM one in the ECM
Stock coolant fan settings for a 1989 C4
As you see ECM commanding fan on/off from 104 to 107 C degrees
Too fricking hot and all for damn smog rules in USA back then
I suggest changing Tstat to 170 F deg and then changing tune to work at that lower coolant temps
View attachment 28821
Very interesting, just checked and we can get the same one from Amazon in the UK for £100.You can do a search as example on Amazon as several to choose from
Example this one is $60 and can burn/flash into many types of E-proms
GM used through the years for vehicles ECMs,
E-prom sizes of 32, 128, 256 and 512 K bytes so want a burner that can handle different sizes and E-proms that have 24 or 28 pins
There are E-prom tools come with the burner, cable and software that runs on MS-Windows
In the case such as an 1989 C4 the ECM uses a 27C128 E-prom which has 28 pins
This means that E-prom hold 128K bytes of data
Also, may want to get an E-prom eraser to be able to delete data on a used E-proms to allow it to be
burned again with new data
Here is from Amazon, programmers, erasers and E-Proms
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