C3 Ownership

[Adtheman]

Welcome to CCCUK, Adtheman...... from the pix, it would seem the black '75' has a 1976 steering wheel (only year it was used, pinched from the Chevrolet Vega!).
Also, the rear end is not standard '75 - someone has installed 1980-on spoilered end cap; this raises the question: has it been rear-ended, or did a previous owner just prefer the look?
Be careful! Study Corvette reference books as much as possible before committing to a purchase, esp. if you're looking for originality. If originality isn't important to you, then you're free to consider whatever takes your fancy.
Someone has already suggested The Corvette Black Book: a must!
There's a wealth of knowledge within CCCUK and plenty of folks will be willing to help and guide you.
J.C. (1911)

Thanks for your knowledge on this, i knew the spoler was from a later car and tbh not really my thing but if the rest of the car is good then it may be worth the sacrifice. Didnt know about the paint option in that year and may consider buying the Black book. I ve already ordered the Haynes and
How to Restore Your C3 Corvette plus Corvette C3 1968-1982: How to Build and Modify as i thought they may give me a little insight.Regarding originality im not too fussed at this price range as i dont think it will make or break any future resale value, please correct me if im wrong. i appreciate any comments or advice at this stage.
I am hoping to do a socially distanced viewing of both cars this weekend. Its really difficult im not rushing into this but at the same time i really need to start looking at a few.

 

[Adtheman]

PerhapsI could butt in here and welcome Adtheman (Adam) as our newest Club Member. Thank you for joining, Adam. We have a C3 Buyers Guide for Club Members. I have emailed you a copy. Welcome.

Thank you so much, this is a big help and i will take this with me when i go to view also some bedtime reading beforehand. Top man i cant believe how helpful everyone has been in such a short time if the cars are half as good as the club members im in for a treat.

 

[Corvetteville]

Thank you so much, this is a big help and i will take this with me when i go to view also some bedtime reading beforehand. Top man i cant believe how helpful everyone has been in such a short time if the cars are half as good as the club members im in for a treat.

As the registration is clear on the photo's of the Black one, you can access the MOT history & mileage from

Check the MOT history of a vehicle

Check the MOT history of a vehicle from 2005 onwards, including if it passed or failed, its mileage and why it failed, download MOT test certificate

www.gov.uk

 

[Adtheman]

As the registration is clear on the photo's of the Black one, you can access the MOT history & mileage from

Check the MOT history of a vehicle

Check the MOT history of a vehicle from 2005 onwards, including if it passed or failed, its mileage and why it failed, download MOT test certificate

www.gov.uk

Really didn't know you could do this, it looks like it failed mot badly last November. it passed in february but there was a lot wrong, do you think a case of too much so bodged to get by then sell on? Structure corrosion at the rear is not good is it?
Do not drive until repaired (dangerous defects):

• Parking brake efficiency less than 50% of the required value (1.4.2 (a) (ii))

Repair immediately (major defects):

• Offside Rear Vehicle structure corroded to the extent that the rigidity of the assembly is significantly reduced body mount (6.1.1 (c) (i))
• Nearside Rear Vehicle structure corroded to the extent that the rigidity of the assembly is significantly reduced body mount (6.1.1 (c) (i))
• Front Windscreen washer not working (3.5 (a))
• Nearside Front Windscreen wiper does not clear the windscreen effectively (3.4 (b) (ii))
• Offside Front Windscreen wiper does not clear the windscreen effectively (3.4 (b) (ii))
• Nearside Headlamp aim not tested (4.1.2 (b))
• Offside Headlamp aim not tested (4.1.2 (b))
• Nearside Headlamp not working on dipped beam (4.1.1 (a) (ii))
• Offside Headlamp not working on dipped beam (4.1.1 (a) (ii))

Monitor and repair if necessary (advisories):

• Offside Rear Wheel bearing has slight play (5.1.3 (a) (i))
• Nearside Front Wheel bearing has slight play (5.1.3 (a) (i))
• Offside Front Wheel bearing has slight play (5.1.3 (a) (i))
• Nearside Front Tyre worn close to legal limit/worn on edge (5.2.3 (e))
• Offside Front Tyre worn close to legal limit/worn on edge (5.2.3 (e))
• Nearside Rear Tyre worn close to legal limit/worn on edge (5.2.3 (e))
• Offside Rear Tyre worn close to legal limit/worn on edge (5.2.3 (e))

 

[Roscobbc]

Really didn't know you could do this, it looks like it failed mot badly last November. it passed in february but there was a lot wrong, do you think a case of too much so bodged to get by then sell on? Structure corrosion at the rear is not good is it?
Do not drive until repaired (dangerous defects):

• Parking brake efficiency less than 50% of the required value (1.4.2 (a) (ii))

Repair immediately (major defects):

• Offside Rear Vehicle structure corroded to the extent that the rigidity of the assembly is significantly reduced body mount (6.1.1 (c) (i))
• Nearside Rear Vehicle structure corroded to the extent that the rigidity of the assembly is significantly reduced body mount (6.1.1 (c) (i))
• Front Windscreen washer not working (3.5 (a))
• Nearside Front Windscreen wiper does not clear the windscreen effectively (3.4 (b) (ii))
• Offside Front Windscreen wiper does not clear the windscreen effectively (3.4 (b) (ii))
• Nearside Headlamp aim not tested (4.1.2 (b))
• Offside Headlamp aim not tested (4.1.2 (b))
• Nearside Headlamp not working on dipped beam (4.1.1 (a) (ii))
• Offside Headlamp not working on dipped beam (4.1.1 (a) (ii))

Monitor and repair if necessary (advisories):

• Offside Rear Wheel bearing has slight play (5.1.3 (a) (i))
• Nearside Front Wheel bearing has slight play (5.1.3 (a) (i))
• Offside Front Wheel bearing has slight play (5.1.3 (a) (i))
• Nearside Front Tyre worn close to legal limit/worn on edge (5.2.3 (e))
• Offside Front Tyre worn close to legal limit/worn on edge (5.2.3 (e))
• Nearside Rear Tyre worn close to legal limit/worn on edge (5.2.3 (e))
• Offside Rear Tyre worn close to legal limit/worn on edge (5.2.3 (e))

Tyres can be replaced. Wheel bearings can be adjusted. Wiring can be checked out as can wipers. Serious corrosion related to body mounts still be a problem but one that can be a fairly straightforward job to replace. And has it all been done?

 

[Chuffer]

As Roscobbc said , lights , wipers , washers etc can be fixed . I guess most of us have been there and done that , I know I have !
The MOT report on serious corrosion around body mounts will mean a body off job if cutting out rot and welding new sections is required . There are USA forums and Youtube videos showing that body mounts can be replaced by just jacking the body up a few inches once the old ones have been accessed and unbolted but that won`t be a half day job and will will certainly be well seized up by now .You really need to see documented proof , invoices etc that all this work has been done before contemplating purchasing this car or you may be in for a shed load of trouble !
My guess is that being new to the idea of a classic Corvette having been into modern fast cars , you want something you can drive asap and not a restoration project that will soak up your hard earned ! Am I write ?

 

[curious bystander]

Adam - before you go much further I think you should seriously reconsider your budget. You say you have £12K with a "bit" for essentials.
I've seen quite a few neat looking C3's on Ebay recently in the £15 -£16K bracket. These might give you much less hassle?
Anything with rust issues is not worth touching IMHO. If you're sensible there are plenty of C3's out there with virtually zero rust.
Push the budget and buy one of those - it will save you sleepless nights

 

[Chuffer]

There you go Adam , the man who knows hath spoken words of great wisdom . I paid £15K for my rust free wide bodied custom job four years ago and still spent a fair amount getting it right !

 

[Daytona Vette]

On the "Monitor and repair" if necessary advice part of the results of the MOT
the item: Offside Rear Wheel bearing has slight play (5.1.3 (a) (i))

Rear wheel bearings are not a quick easy job to replace as the fronts are and often require much time or expenditure, one of those jobs that are not the easiest to do but necessary.
Just shows you how deep you have to look and investigate, this car at one time was obviously not loved, but let us face it a lot of C3s right up to the 80s have had Windscreen and body mount repairs, it is a time thing and British weather.

As Bill says reconsider your budget to give you a little more latitude and choice and you never know, you may not have to spend the full amount, best to go and check out what there is even if you do not like the spec, that will give you good grounding for you to have more confidence when saying yes, I want to buy that one.

 

[Daytona Vette]

Because of Historic Classifications and cars over a certain age not legally requiring an MOT, most but not all of the C3 years will fall into that category, so needless to say you always insist on an up to date MOT - they are not always honest or on the mark, but better to have one than not and may add to the bargaining power.

 

[Roscobbc]

I'm sure a good many MOT stations are totally unfamiliar with the foibles of C3 ownership. Biggest clue is usually a failure attributed to the parking brake. Anyone who knows Vette's will understand that parking brakes are one step up from being totally ineffective and will accordingly give a 'pass' on this category. Do wheel bearing have any adjustment left on them? when they were tested for 'play' was the wheel 'hanging-down' loose? (or supported?)

 

[Adtheman]

As Roscobbc said , lights , wipers , washers etc can be fixed . I guess most of us have been there and done that , I know I have !
The MOT report on serious corrosion around body mounts will mean a body off job if cutting out rot and welding new sections is required . There are USA forums and Youtube videos showing that body mounts can be replaced by just jacking the body up a few inches once the old ones have been accessed and unbolted but that won`t be a half day job and will will certainly be well seized up by now .You really need to see documented proof , invoices etc that all this work has been done before contemplating purchasing this car or you may be in for a shed load of trouble !
My guess is that being new to the idea of a classic Corvette having been into modern fast cars , you want something you can drive asap and not a restoration project that will soak up your hard earned ! Am I write ?

hi, yes i want something i can drive that will be safe. im no mechanic but i can turn my hand to most things as im very practical and will enjoy spending time doing brakes and stuff but a full on resto or big project frankly scares the what nots off me. im not after the perfect bodywork or interior but i do want it to be sound and running well. i honestly thought i could get something around the 10k mark for that type of car. i know what will happen if i spend15k there will then be something im still not happy with and then the process starts again and before yo know it you're edging 20k and that's not somewhere im comfortable. i'll keep plugging for a bit and just see what comes up. paintwork is less of an issue for me as i have a good friend who has a paintshop and he owes me a favour or 3.

 

[Adtheman]

There you go Adam , the man who knows hath spoken words of great wisdom . I paid £15K for my rust free wide bodied custom job four years ago and still spent a fair amount getting it right ! View attachment 6692

Thats a nice ride !!!

 

[Chuffer]

Thats a nice ride !!!

Thanks for the but that is what £15K plus a three speed transmission rebuild and a new differential looks like . Add to that new wiper motor to overcome park and wash / wipe problems , new sway bar bushes and rear suspension bushes and headlight vacuum system rebuild and replacement of warn out and jamming door locks plus replacement of tatty interior with new fitted carpet set and leather seats . All of the latter I did myself . Never totted up all the invoices because that`s the last scary thing you should with a classic car ! Unfortunately owning any classic car comes with its challenges , both ptactical and financial . Safe and reliable classic cars do exist that can be driven and enjoyed whilst slowly improving them but need a lot of research . I bet all these responses on the forum have scared you ****less and spoilt the dream but we don`t want to see you stuck with a money pit !

 

[Adtheman]

Everyones been great and all the information im digesting, its certainly woken me up a little. Im going to sit back a little and take it all in, going above my budget is not practical for me at the moment. im not in a major rush so ill see what happens next couple of months.

 

[Daytona Vette]

Be ware of "Money Pits"

 

[Chuffer]

Everyones been great and all the information im digesting, its certainly woken me up a little. Im going to sit back a little and take it all in, going above my budget is not practical for me at the moment. im not in a major rush so ill see what happens next couple of months.

What is meant for you will not pass you by

 

[Adtheman]

Im off to Essex today to have a look at 2 C3s at the same dealer, hes got a later 1980 car up at 10k and a 76 at £12.9k. Its a starting point and 2 in the same location both slightly different. The 76 hes told me is good throught apart from the headlamps dont lift he told me its just the actuator thats about £50. Am i right in thinking it may not be quite that easy? Ive got my Buying guide that Rich kindly sent across to me.

 

[phild]

It may, or may not, be. If you find that you want the car get the dealer to include that in the price or pay the £50, if dealer does not agree then walk.

 

[Chuffer]

It depends on what sort of dealer he is . In reality the car is not legally road worthy until the headlights operate and he should rectify the fault before offering it for sale . There is one actuator per headlight assembly not " actuator " singular . It is often not necessary to replace the whole actuator , as the rubber seals inside perish with age and cause vacuum leaks . Seal kits are available at about £50 for both actuators ( ie : a pair ) as you certainly won`t get a new actuator for £50 each ! The seals are a DIY job if you are a bit mechanically minded . As phild said , it may or may not be the problem . Could be a leak anywhere in vacuum lines that run through engine bay to inlet manifold via headlight switch and a non return valve . Problem could be any of these compnents . Good luck and keep on keeping on .