Clutch cross shaft rebuild.

Mad4slalom

Well-known user
Evening all, has anyone done the clutch cross shaft rebuild with the nylon bushes and felt seals? If so, can you remember the symptoms before you did it?
My cross shaft has had some play , i have s rebuild kit and new block and frame ball studs, until now i have just been keeping the shaft greased and all has been ok.
I noticed this week that the clutch pedal is quiet when the car is cold, but after a run when it is hot , the clutch pedal when pushed makes a dryish not exactly a squeak but a noise that sounds like something needs lubing. My brother felt the rod and linkages in various places and feels and hears it but cant pinpoint the exact location.
Could the clutch fork need a
dab of grease on the bellhousing stud I wonder or the block and frame Studs that the shaft mounts on. ?
Clutch all working properly , just noisy when hot. Any suggestions welcome,

Many thanks 👍
 

antijam

CCCUK Member
I rebuilt mine three years ago (see here) - not because of noise or any symptoms of malfunction but because it has to come off to remove a header and while off I decided it could use a refurb, since a PO had made a pigs ear of refitting it after a clutch change. There are quite a few pivot points in the complete clutch linkage and it can't do any harm to be generous with lubrication.
What I did find was that the clutch rod swivel was badly worn on its journal (picture in my original post). Mine wasn't making a noise but I imagine such wear could be noisy. Suggest you check yours out.
 

Roscobbc

Moderator
The stock cross shaft and associated springs, push rods, ball end, pivot point, felt washer etc etc is hardly a high precision quality engineered solution is it? - even the after market rose-jointed push rods are little better. But it does work, and work quite well whether in good order or poorly maintained and unlubricated.
Rather that than one of those dry-bollock/hydraulic conversions that slip over the mainshaft, require a separate clutch master cylinder and don't work/release properly if the engine and fluid run too hot.
 

Mad4slalom

Well-known user
The stock cross shaft and associated springs, push rods, ball end, pivot point, felt washer etc etc is hardly a high precision quality engineered solution is it? - even the after market rose-jointed push rods are little better. But it does work, and work quite well whether in good order or poorly maintained and unlubricated.
Rather that than one of those dry-bollock/hydraulic conversions that slip over the mainshaft, require a separate clutch master cylinder and don't work/release properly if the engine and fluid run too hot.
Thanks both,
Check the stud on the chassis end hasn’t come loose.
I will check all the usual bits , I have had the loose nut and tab before hence wobbly shaft and play through lack of grease. I am thinking now tho that it is probably More to do with pulling the box back to do the bearing retainer bolt. I think on reading things that we should have greased the bearing retainer that the release bearing slides back and forth over and fork contact points . Noise is since we disturbed that and only when hot.
Do you think I may be able to gain a bit of access through the clutch arm rubber gaitor to get some grease on the pivot points and thrust bearing sleeve ?
Should have read more before but was so please to have replaced bolt and stooped leak we just pushed the box back in as quick as we could !🫣
 

Mad4slalom

Well-known user
I got some grease in there today oneball no noise again when cold but there when hot but a little better than it was. It sounds and feels more in the pedal but that could be noise travelling through all that mechanical linkage. I re greased the cross shaft too. this evening i noticed if i press the pedal slowly, the noise is there but if I press the pedal quickly the noise is not there. A bit baffled where to look now 🤔
 
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