Daytona Vette
Well-known user
Google carnt spel to well anie way! it iz AmericonAnd (amazingly) without referring to Google for spell checking
Easy front spring install.
- Thread starter Corvette
- Start date
Daytona Vette
Well-known user
I know VBP (VBP that were) 550lb springs lowered the front by 1" compared to standard big block springs
Great post. I hate doing anything with springs and hold my breath until it's all complete. I originally bought the external spring compressors (I think they were supposed to be used for McPherson struts) and couldn't get them to fit at all even with the damper out. Then bought a one piece set like in the first pic and used a similar method. Still had a strap running to them from the opposite of the car just in case something let go..... Glad I'm done with that part anyway although I might have to use it again to get a bump stop fitted on one side which I forgot to do at the time.
Forrest Gump
CCCUK regional rep
That’s scary. Probably better to jack the car up when adjusting the link
My 550’s are coming from VanSteel. They say they’ll lower a small block car by 3/4” from stock height.
Forrest Gump
CCCUK regional rep
But why should that be? The car has no driver in it 99% of the time.
Daytona Vette
Well-known user
Presuming everything is new and correct on a C3, it is the antiquated design that is the issue, the car can never handle / be at its optimum, because you can not dial out the imbalance of weight due to the steering box, battery etc. and of course the driver, - you need to be able to adjust the front, you need adjustable coil overs at the front and four corner weighing scales
You can have a bang on set up of all the correct numbers for toe, camber and caster but with a C3 you will always have an imbalance between the driver and passenger side of the car - you need the correct numbers mentioned plus the correct weights
With the ballast on the driver's seat equal to his / her weight, the weight of the NSF + OSR should equal the weight of the OSF + NSR - also with coil overs if someone knows what they are doing they can move the weight around to increase front end grip or traction, it is however all a balance with shocks and anti-roll bars etc, with the most important factor in all of this being the capability of the person carrying out the chassis tuning.
Last edited:
Forrest Gump
CCCUK regional rep
Totally agree Barry, I enjoyed reading your Vette News feature about you doing all of this on your car. I doubt many road cars ever see corner scales, and there would probably be some "interesting" results if they ddi!!
Of course measuring to the wheel arches wouldn't figure in proper suspension and chassis set up, and would only serve to tell you if the panels are even and body mounts shimmed correctly etc. Having said that for many peoples concerns and car usage this visual is the most important point and I wouldn't argue with that at all.
My Dad spent his career in motor sport and was a racing car set-up genius. I wish he was still around to help me get my car right. I got involved in the racing with him for a spell when I was younger.
Daytona Vette
Well-known user
without the weight of the driver if the two rear weights are equal but the front weights are not equal how
Oneball
CCCUK Member
Changing one corner always affects the diagonal corner.
Daytona Vette
Well-known user
Andy sorry to hear of your loss, I am sure you miss him at the track side when you are doing your bit and yes of course he had a wealth of knowledge that you could tap into
I originally had the problem of unequal heights (I learned measure vertically from the wheel arch to the rim at the bottom of the wheel, delete the tyre wall) I could not dial out the issues via the back spring bolts
I was greener then than now but I am still green on most things
I swapped the front springs over from side to side to see if their was an issue - no
I went as far as rotating the rear spring - as expected no change
I took the Vette to a crash repair specialist and had it mounted on a chassis Jig with all the wheels off and had the chassis checked to find all the measurements were bang on correct
I then went for the NSR Trailing Arm and replaced it, just in case it was bent although it looked good - no issue there
As a matter of course I then replaced the OSR Trailing Arm to match the change to the other side
Some time later, not on the same quest I had a body off and it was found (I do not know the part here so I can not quite imagine it and consequently hope I am making sense) that the rail at the bottom of the body where it mounts to the chassis on the near side, just before the rear wheel was not correctly in place and was a fault from manufacture and it was that, that was causing an issue
The body off was completed, the body went back on, no body mount shims were used, the Vette was sitting square and good with all heights equal, but and a big BUT, the NSF wheel was far back in the wheel arch and looking at the shims there was no where to go to get any beneficial change in caster
So you start thinking out of the box; had I got my chassis back, if anything was amiss with the components, it pointed to the bottom wishbone, Had I got my bottom wishbone back, was this nearside wishbone bent but I could not see it - I changed the bottom wishbone - no difference - put the old one back
So I met the Shark on the stand at the NEC, "no issues I can do that, need the car for two to three weeks" - ten months later blanking my calls and emails I get my car - he had not got a clue - I could go on with the curdling tales of the Corvette Rogue, but never mind.
So everything new on the car, but the caster issue prevailed, I had an excellent recommendation of an outfit to go through my car and set it up correctly, they race prepped Porsches and had a lot of trophies under their belt, but I waited and waited as their time was full and in the end, they said if you really need someone good go to ........................... several week wait and then all sorted in a day, the issue just came out in the wash - but by the time I went there my car was fully prepared for the ultimate set up - everything was new anyway, I put in the adjustable Coil Overs from VBP they had to get the 550 Springs made at Van Steel to suit, the front shocks were single adjust - all the wheels were balanced two days before - that caused a jittery issue - I had the whole car spanner-ed - no issues - took it to my favourite place for another wheel balance every wheel was out by the same amount - badly calibrated effort in the first outfit
So I have got the Tee shirt, but now have a Vette that is chalk and cheese away from where it was and where many C2, C3 Vettes are - So many do not know what they are missing, but although it is good to have the right bits, they are useless without it being set up properly
Sorry for the rant
I originally had the problem of unequal heights (I learned measure vertically from the wheel arch to the rim at the bottom of the wheel, delete the tyre wall) I could not dial out the issues via the back spring bolts
I was greener then than now but I am still green on most things
I swapped the front springs over from side to side to see if their was an issue - no
I went as far as rotating the rear spring - as expected no change
I took the Vette to a crash repair specialist and had it mounted on a chassis Jig with all the wheels off and had the chassis checked to find all the measurements were bang on correct
I then went for the NSR Trailing Arm and replaced it, just in case it was bent although it looked good - no issue there
As a matter of course I then replaced the OSR Trailing Arm to match the change to the other side
Some time later, not on the same quest I had a body off and it was found (I do not know the part here so I can not quite imagine it and consequently hope I am making sense) that the rail at the bottom of the body where it mounts to the chassis on the near side, just before the rear wheel was not correctly in place and was a fault from manufacture and it was that, that was causing an issue
The body off was completed, the body went back on, no body mount shims were used, the Vette was sitting square and good with all heights equal, but and a big BUT, the NSF wheel was far back in the wheel arch and looking at the shims there was no where to go to get any beneficial change in caster
So you start thinking out of the box; had I got my chassis back, if anything was amiss with the components, it pointed to the bottom wishbone, Had I got my bottom wishbone back, was this nearside wishbone bent but I could not see it - I changed the bottom wishbone - no difference - put the old one back
So I met the Shark on the stand at the NEC, "no issues I can do that, need the car for two to three weeks" - ten months later blanking my calls and emails I get my car - he had not got a clue - I could go on with the curdling tales of the Corvette Rogue, but never mind.
So everything new on the car, but the caster issue prevailed, I had an excellent recommendation of an outfit to go through my car and set it up correctly, they race prepped Porsches and had a lot of trophies under their belt, but I waited and waited as their time was full and in the end, they said if you really need someone good go to ........................... several week wait and then all sorted in a day, the issue just came out in the wash - but by the time I went there my car was fully prepared for the ultimate set up - everything was new anyway, I put in the adjustable Coil Overs from VBP they had to get the 550 Springs made at Van Steel to suit, the front shocks were single adjust - all the wheels were balanced two days before - that caused a jittery issue - I had the whole car spanner-ed - no issues - took it to my favourite place for another wheel balance every wheel was out by the same amount - badly calibrated effort in the first outfit
So I have got the Tee shirt, but now have a Vette that is chalk and cheese away from where it was and where many C2, C3 Vettes are - So many do not know what they are missing, but although it is good to have the right bits, they are useless without it being set up properly
Sorry for the rant
Last edited:
Daytona Vette
Well-known user
Exactly you have just changed one of the two that were equal to try and get the front equal to the cost of one of the rears, hence the benefit of being able to adjust each corner separately and work it through - just my humble opinion - I may be wrong
Oneball
CCCUK Member
Been doing corner weights for 15 years. Think of it like a table with one leg not touching the ground. You can put a beer mat under either the leg that’s not touching or it’s diagonal opposite to get all four to touch.
Daytona Vette
Well-known user
I only have 3 legged tables so they are always good and you have been drinking beer with you mate Mat under the table since you were 15 - I am going to come and watch you race
Daytona Vette
Well-known user
What is the car Andy and what is the fruit bowl?
Forrest Gump
CCCUK regional rep
It’s a Sports 2000. Two litre Ford engine and run on slick tyres. These cars are still out there racing.
This was at Brands Hatch after winning that day, hence the wreath and rose bowl (can be used for fruit too!)