High Zinc Fully Synthetic Oil?

[Last triumph]

Just researching oil for the '81 and would like to use fully synthetic for all of the known benefits.

Aware of the high zinc content required for flat tappet cams, I'm struggling to find anything other than Amsoil Z-Rod, which looks to be just the stuff, but is more expensive than printer ink.

Is there anything similar (fully synth, high ZDDP) readily available in the UK other than the Amsoil Z-Rod?

 

[Roscobbc]

With all due respect using fully synthetic oil on an 'old school' engine is really a bit of a waste - far better to use the very best mineral with ZDDP.

 

[Last triumph]

What would you recommend?

 

[Roscobbc]

Valvoline VR1 Racing mineral - Kendal GT - I'm sure Anders at Anglo American will have something suitable too.

 

[Resinator]

Can recommend the Driven oils from Anglo, got them in both my Yanks. Speak to Anders, they now offer discount to members too.

 

[Chuffer]

I recommend Valvoline VR1 too and use mothing else on my 1980 C3 . Definitely no no for a fully synthetic .

 

[Last triumph]

I recommend Valvoline VR1 too and use mothing else on my 1980 C3 . Definitely no no for a fully synthetic .

Please can I ask why you would say no to fully synth? What element of a mineral oil outperforms synth, assuming the synth has adequate ZPPD?

Genuinely interested in the science.

 

[Chuffer]

There is a lot of debate about the various perceived merits or downsides of using a modern fully synthetic oil in old engines . However , without getting too scientific about it , the detergents in modern synth oils can basically over clean older engines that have spent many years on the old mineral oils . This can lead to leaks in seals etc . Many of us in the CCCUK use mineral oil in our cars and trust me , this has been discussed at great length in the past . Valvoline VR1 is also recommended by a very experienced spanner man mate of mine who looks after a fleet of classic race cars including a `67 Mustang . It is a race spec oil that requires regular oil changes but in the average classic car that probably only does two to three thousand miles a year , that`s not an issue as an annual oil and filter change will suffice . Hope this helps .

 

[Roscobbc]

Synthetics generally being of a 'thinner' viscosity and advanced lubricity are best suited in late model engines that have closer tolerances - not saying you can't use them in 'classic' engines but the higher duty cycle is wasted on an earlier engine that was't built to those standards - got any oil leaks or drips? - yes? - they'll likely be more noticable with synthetic.

 

[Mr. Cricket]

got any oil leaks or drips? - yes? - they'll likely be more noticable with synthetic.

Pour in, flow out do I recall an excellent write up on oil in the club mag a couple of issues back?

 

[Last triumph]

I can understand all that, logical and common sense. Obviously the weight can be adjusted on fully synth to cure concerns around it being too thin, but the rest makes sense.

What weight/viscosity VR1 are you using?

 

[hurtzcsa]

I have always used Kendal GT 20/50 in all my v8 cars including my old street /drag race car

 

[Chuffer]

Valvoline VR1 20/ 50 racing Oil.

 

[Oneball]

Another vote for VR1 here. Been using it for 15 years in race cars and never any sign of bearing wear.

 

[Roscobbc]

I can understand all that, logical and common sense. Obviously the weight can be adjusted on fully synth to cure concerns around it being too thin, but the rest makes sense.

What weight/viscosity VR1 are you using?

Its 20/50

 

[Mad4slalom]

Valvoline VR1 20/ 50 racing Oil.

Hmm, I was sold some fuchs synthetic race oil that Opie assured me contained 1300 ppm of zinc but I cant see any mention of zinc on the can nor mention of flat tappet camshafts, I spoke to a chap in fuch’s technical dept who couldnt confirm it either way, he was going to speak with the chemists to find out and get back to me, I have not had a call as yet. I think I will return it and exchange for the valvoline VR1 20/50. One question that may seem silly, is a “re built “ Older engine still an older engine where synthetic or mineral oils are concerned?

 

[Chuffer]

I guess it depends on the extent of the rebuild and long ago it was done . Was it `blue printed ` to minimum tolerances ? VR1 has 13% Zinc and 12% phosphorus content . However , I have read somewhere high zinc levels can potentially damage cat . Is your car still cat fitted ? Mine isn`t.

 

[Roscobbc]

Optimum ZDDP content is supposed to be 1200/1300 ppm. Any more than these figures will have a retrograde effect and create oil degradation.
There are a number of oil manufacturers/suppliers who state that the oil supplied is "suitable for classic engines" but give no further information about ZDDP content.
Some when questioned simply quote along the lines of "sufficient additives are used (such as ZDDP) for the specific type of engine". One of those companies may have been Millers (haven't looked at their company statement recently) Halford's could be another.
As far as I'm concerned if using an engine that has cost thousands of pounds to build-up I won't be using any oil that the manufacturer/supplier isn't prepared to qualify their product and state the additive content of the oil being sold.
Its mainly cams, followers, valve gear etc that is likely to be effected by lack of ZDDP - a couple of years ago I had a oil pump drive shaft fracture causing total loss of oil pressure. Probably drove the car for a mile or so before realising and another mile or so before finding somewhere to pull-over. No lasting damage to engine - oil used was Valvoline VR1 Racing.........

 

[Chuffer]

At least Valvoline VR1 racing oil states the ZDDP content so it wins every time for me .

 

[CaptainK]

Another one for the Valvoline VR1 here too - gonna do an oil change soon as I have all the bits ready now.