Radiator removal - tips and tricks

trevbeadle

trevbeadle

CCCUK Member
I'm going to play around by reinstalling the rad in the mounts first then seeing if the shroud will slide in or if it looks easy to modify so that it will...will keep you posted. Hope to take the rad into the Rad shop next week for their appraisal of weld/re-core. With this weather we're having and lockdown no great rush to get it up and finished!!
 
trevbeadle

trevbeadle

CCCUK Member
So I report: Rad re-cored at £295 plus VAT. Refitted to rad support with new rubber cushions and foam sealers. I took the plunge and cut the shroud top to bottom mid-line. Wow!....what a difference to get it back in! Simples! I can get it out, in and fixed again in 10 minutes. I made and fitted the closure plates from thin galvanized steel front and back and fitted them prior to installation, just 4 self tappers now close the cut, they're hardly noticeable and the installed shroud is very rigid. The 80's shroud is positioned at the bottom with 2 tongues and at the top with 2 bolts so it is as rigid as the original. With the fan and engine ancillaries attached it hard to see the join!
IMG_2297.JPG IMG_2302.JPG IMG_2303.JPG
 
kentvette

kentvette

CCCUK Member
trevbeadle said:
So I report: Rad re-cored at £295 plus VAT. Refitted to rad support with new rubber cushions and foam sealers. I took the plunge and cut the shroud top to bottom mid-line. Wow!....what a difference to get it back in! Simples! I can get it out, in and fixed again in 10 minutes. I made and fitted the closure plates from thin galvanized steel front and back and fitted them prior to installation, just 4 self tappers now close the cut, they're hardly noticeable and the installed shroud is very rigid. The 80's shroud is positioned at the bottom with 2 tongues and at the top with 2 bolts so it is as rigid as the original. With the fan and engine ancillaries attached it hard to see the join!
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I've got to confess that I was a tad sceptical about your plans, but that looks good! Glad the re-core worked, my foray into that was a disaster!
 
phill78

phill78

CCCUK Member
trevbeadle said:
I'm removing the rad from my '80 C3. Reason?....leak from the base of the 'filler' tank(Passenger side). The aim is to get it to a local rad specialist to see if it can be welded/re-cored. It sounds like the most cost effective way and knowing that it will fit when reinstalled.
I have disconnected the shroud. 1 piece item, 2 bolts at top and 2 'tongues' at bottom. It will lift free but not come out. Fan and clutch and smog removed and there seems a good gap to lift the rad out when that's freed from the mounts and tranny cooling pipes. Top and bottom hoses are removed from the rad and look in OK condition.
View attachment 8802.


Q1. Is there enough room to lift the rad out with the shroud moved rearwards and remove the shroud after? Lift the rad and the shroud out together? Would be nice to inspect/re-rustproof the cross member and metal under he rad/shroud.

I'm concerned about removing the tranny cooling lines with the rad in situ. It looks like the rad has been removed before as the pipe lines have rubber hose joiners/clips (or was this standard?)

View attachment 8803View attachment 8804View attachment 8805


I am tempted to cut through the hose connections with tin-shears to free the lines and when the rad and shroud are removed and the rad is on the workbench, remove the remaining metalwork piping and clean up/replace all the rubber hose/clips! Likewise the remaining tranny cooling line pipework on the car.
Q2. Is this a good idea/optional way of doing things? Will I and the car get covered in transmission fluid??

Q3.The rad mountings themselves are easy to remove. (I think!). Just the top 2 and the freed rad should lift straight up now released. I will buy new rad mount cushions when I have confirmed sizing.

Have I missed anything?....alternative courses of action?...Thanks for inputs......................
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I will be doing my 78 soon going the same root re-core
 
trevbeadle

trevbeadle

CCCUK Member
Phill. Allegedly the '78 shroud, I'm told, is a lot easier to remove! Ensure that the rad recorer sticks rigidly with the width that the original side tanks are apart to ensure the mounting brackets will align.
Started the old girl up today to check all my handiwork and thinking I'd go for a spin, to find coolant coming from the front of the engine!!!!! I hasten to add not from the rad and the water pump is virtually brand new so will have to get under again and see where that's coming from and if I've left something un-tightened. Doh!!
 
kentvette

kentvette

CCCUK Member
phill78 said:
Hi thanks for that
I'm thinking replace the water pump at the same time
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Phil, we have found that the shroud and radiator removal on our old '78 is pretty straightforward, certainly we didn't have the issues that Trev encountered. We replaced the water pump many years ago and I think the whole process took about an hour and a half.

Incidentally, when it comes to refilling the cooling system it can help to have the car on ramps at the front, it just makes the angel better and helps water not going everywhere! But just be sure to follow the method described in the Haynes Manual or, the GM Drivers Handbook.
 
phill78

phill78

CCCUK Member
Yeah but don't try to push a corvette into your garage
you may tear a calf muscle !
My car wont be going anywhere soon lol
 
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