Thank you both, it just looked dry and I wondered . Not stiff but I tried it once after reconnecting the cable and it felt a bit stiffer than before we disturbed it. I will check cable clamp position on side of gbox to check outer cable is clamped in the same position. Will lube cable and arm a bit too. It all still looks very new from the rebuild tho that was over ten years ago.
eek! Tell me more, funny that, as tim P (I think it was) asked me if I needed a rag joint a few weeks ago! What do you think my issue is ? TiA
Are you looking at the splined section at the bottom of my pic?
Yes. See the flat section milled into it. The clamp bolt that goes through the rag joint should sit in that area so even if it is loose the joint can’t slip off the shaft. Could be your steering column has been collapsed slightly or just the rag joint is too far onto the box.Are you looking at the splined section at the bottom of my pic?
Ah yes , I had a similar safety thing on my beach buggy joint, I will investigate in a bit and take a picture of the actual joint.
thank you and well spotted 
Morning gavin, do you. Remember we spoke about the flat tool to lock the shifter levers when setting the shift rod adjustment? Were you talking about the stock shifter? Mine has a hurst comp, and they describe round holes that you insert a drill bit or screwdriver to align the shifter levers into neutral before adjusting the rods.
Thanks both, I will take another pic in a minute and compare
Hurst is super easy. Yes exactly what you say. Think the hole is 1/4”. The flat plate is just for the stock shifter,Morning gavin, do you. Remember we spoke about the flat tool to lock the shifter levers when setting the shift rod adjustment? Were you talking about the stock shifter? Mine has a hurst comp, and they describe round holes that you insert a drill bit or screwdriver to align the shifter levers into neutral before adjusting the rods.
Just a thought , as a quick way to check adjustment , can I put gearstick into neutral , with the rods still connected and then insert a drill bit into the holes in the shift levers , and if they are in alignment then adjustment is ok ? Or do I still need to make up the flat tool ?
Hope this makes sense !
Many thanks , back on the ramp later then. I have lubed the lock out lever but I will check the lock out cable to gearbox clamp as I think it may have moved along abit and created a tighter bend as it is a bit stiffer than before .
Here is a better pic , looks wrong for sure, any suggestions as to what I should do, I thought that the bolt ( on the buggy) could Only fit through in the correct spot, this may be different. I would like to make sure I am not going to turn left instead of right!!
I have sent the pic to peter in the usa who restored it . I suspect there is another detent where the bolt is now , otherwise the bolt wouldnt fit through ? He will be able to explain Hopefully.Here is a better pic , looks wrong for sure, any suggestions as to what I should do, I thought that the bolt ( on the buggy) could Only fit through in the correct spot, this may be different. I would like to make sure I am not going to turn left instead of right!!
That sounds a good plan thank you
If your shifter is a hurst, that uses an Allen key to hold the shifter in neutralMorning gavin, do you. Remember we spoke about the flat tool to lock the shifter levers when setting the shift rod adjustment? Were you talking about the stock shifter? Mine has a hurst comp, and they describe round holes that you insert a drill bit or screwdriver to align the shifter levers into neutral before adjusting the rods.
Just a thought , as a quick way to check adjustment , can I put gearstick into neutral , with the rods still connected and then insert a drill bit into the holes in the shift levers , and if they are in alignment then adjustment is ok ? Or do I still need to make up the flat tool ?
Hope this makes sense !
