Spark plug query

Mad4slalom

Well-known user
Hi all, what plugs are people using and recommending in their 350’s mine is a 72 rebuilt motor with 9.75-1 comp , mild cam and iron heads 350 bhp.
Which ac delco plugs ?, currently has ngk equivalents. Many thanks in advance.
 

Chuffer

CCCUK Member
Thanks chuffer, the 45 ts are the hotter one’s ?
To be precise they are R45TS to give them the proper code and the 5 is the heat rating on a rising scale and a hotter plug . Hot rated plugs can cause pre ignition on high compression engines but I have not had issues with the 9 : 1 comp ratio . If you go with NGK be aware their heat ratings are in reverse order to AC Delco , ie lower the number the higher the temp rating .
 

Mad4slalom

Well-known user
To be precise they are R45TS to give them the proper code and the 5 is the heat rating on a rising scale and a hotter plug . Hot rated plugs can cause pre ignition on high compression engines but I have not had issues with the 9 : 1 comp ratio . If you go with NGK be aware their heat ratings are in reverse order to AC Delco , ie lower the number the higher the temp rating .
Hmm that’s interesting, very occasionally I have had like half a rotation run on , I am running ngk ( or were they champion)🤔 but correct for my motor. Think I will try the ac delco ‘s👍
 

Mad4slalom

Well-known user
On reading the bumph from the PO in the usa that came with the car , he advised using autolite #26 plugs, actually one of the cheapest but he apparently uses them in all his C2’s and C3’s. Real steel had them in stock at £36 for 8 inc free next day delivery so went with them. Thanks to all for input 👍
 

Roscobbc

Moderator
Hmm that’s interesting, very occasionally I have had like half a rotation run on , I am running ngk ( or were they champion)🤔 but correct for my motor. Think I will try the ac delco ‘s👍
I have had that with NGK plugs when the engine was brand new - I would run-on for a few revs. Bearing in mind the engine has a 'cam' it seemed to needed a fairly rich idle mixture due to the reduced vacuum created by the cam. I put if down to carbon deposits from the rich mixture settling on what would have been freshly machined sharp edges to piston valve reliefs. And it did go away after a few hundred miles. However due to a lot of use in urban traffic and that idle jetting actually works up to 1000/1100 rpm (and only then transitions on to main jets) it would usually foul-up and eventually short-out one or two plugs every year or 18 months.....even using a MSD ignition.
So I stepped 'up' from the engine builder original suggested BCP9ES to a hotter BCP7ES and the fouling improved.
 

Mad4slalom

Well-known user
I have had that with NGK plugs when the engine was brand new - I would run-on for a few revs. Bearing in mind the engine has a 'cam' it seemed to needed a fairly rich idle mixture due to the reduced vacuum created by the cam. I put if down to carbon deposits from the rich mixture settling on what would have been freshly machined sharp edges to piston valve reliefs. And it did go away after a few hundred miles. However due to a lot of use in urban traffic and that idle jetting actually works up to 1000/1100 rpm (and only then transitions on to main jets) it would usually foul-up and eventually short-out one or two plugs every year or 18 months.....even using a MSD ignition.
So I stepped 'up' from the engine builder original suggested BCP9ES to a hotter BCP7ES and the fouling improved.
Useful info ross, 👍when I fit the new plugs it will be interesting to see how clean or dirty the old plugs are. They have been in there since I got the 72 4 years ago but probably only have1500 miles on them. The motor has done 5500 since the rebuild. I have never had a very smooth transition from idle to main jets, (especially if driving gently) is that just a feature of a 50 year old carbureted motor or something a good Holley guy can “tune “ out ?🤔👍
 

Roscobbc

Moderator
Useful info ross, 👍when I fit the new plugs it will be interesting to see how clean or dirty the old plugs are. They have been in there since I got the 72 4 years ago but probably only have1500 miles on them. The motor has done 5500 since the rebuild. I have never had a very smooth transition from idle to main jets, (especially if driving gently) is that just a feature of a 50 year old carbureted motor or something a good Holley guy can “tune “ out ?🤔👍
Have to say that it took me quite a while over a period of several months to 'optimise' the transition 'issue' going from idle to main using the 'Old school' method. Other things seemingly unassociated come in play - ignition timing and the advance curve and engine temperature.
With the old L36 engine and its 750 DP Holley, good HT leads, an MSD ignition pack, an advance curve that 'came-in' much earlier than stock the engine unbelievably would 'lug down' to 700 rpm and lower (so 7/10 mph) in 4th gear if wanted an still pull away cleanly. 'Today' with the modified engine and it cam that figure is now is around 1100 rpm - about 30 mph or so. This is fine, town driving is now done in 3rd gear which keeps the engine running clean - 'hot' days (or when engine is running very hot) is when that occasional 'transition' issue occasional occurs.
 

Mad4slalom

Well-known user
Have to say that it took me quite a while over a period of several months to 'optimise' the transition 'issue' going from idle to main using the 'Old school' method. Other things seemingly unassociated come in play - ignition timing and the advance curve and engine temperature.
With the old L36 engine and its 750 DP Holley, good HT leads, an MSD ignition pack, an advance curve that 'came-in' much earlier than stock the engine unbelievably would 'lug down' to 700 rpm and lower (so 7/10 mph) in 4th gear if wanted an still pull away cleanly. 'Today' with the modified engine and it cam that figure is now is around 1100 rpm - about 30 mph or so. This is fine, town driving is now done in 3rd gear which keeps the engine running clean - 'hot' days (or when engine is running very hot) is when that occasional 'transition' issue occasional occurs.
I notice mine is worse for longer if left unused and much better if car driven 2/3 times in one week. Also much better when properly up to temp, saying that, it still runs very cool and will sit in traffic for as long as needed. The PO in buffalo ny did re curve the ignition timing , I will dig out the notes he sent over with the car 👍autolite plugs arrived from john wolfe racing , a blast from the past 44years plus, since I went to their shop at staples corner. We went up from cornwall a few times to the Battersea cruise nights.
 

Roscobbc

Moderator
I notice mine is worse for longer if left unused and much better if car driven 2/3 times in one week. Also much better when properly up to temp, saying that, it still runs very cool and will sit in traffic for as long as needed. The PO in buffalo ny did re curve the ignition timing , I will dig out the notes he sent over with the car 👍autolite plugs arrived from john wolfe racing , a blast from the past 44years plus, since I went to their shop at staples corner. We went up from cornwall a few times to the Battersea cruise nights.
I remember going up to JWR for bits up at Staples Corner just under the flyover. Didn't last long there unfortunately.
That plug fouling issue led me to regularly adjusting the idle mixture on the carb. Carb is a Proform 'generic' Holley DP. It has all the 'bells and whistles' you'd typically expect from a race type carb.......including (very usefully) 4 corner idle mixture screws. These are really helpful in estabishing a steady idle, especially if using a dual plane inlet manifold. However they (especially the two primary screws) are very sensitive - the adjustment between a rich idle and 'weak' setting is perhaps as little as 1/8th of a turn.
 
Top