Track day advice

[nickprice]

Hi guys. I have my first track day in September with the C8. Just after advice from anyone that has done one or maybe has done more research than me! Here are my questions:

Brake cooling ducts:

Do I really need to fit them?
How much difference do they make?
Can I easily fit them myself?

Alignment:

Do I really need to get it done for a first track day with the car? -3 deg camber front and -2.5 deg camber rear. Will it just eat my tyres on a fun day out?
I have heard of a semi-track alignment that can be daily driven - does anyone have any experience? -1.5 deg camber front and -1 deg camber rear?
Should I approach the local chevy dealership or is anywhere going to be good?

Track map:

Is it worth getting it set up before or is the learn mode easy to use? I have found a .gpx of the track (Zandvoort) I'm going on and am planning on learning how to load it up.

Thanks in advance!

 

[Oneball]

It’s your first time just turn up in the car as it is with a tyre gauge and pump. I wouldn’t go modifying anything.

Take it easy and leave the electronic stability stuff on. If you’re really on it you’re pretty assured to be at the limit of temperature on the brakes. Balance it by doing some slow laps. It’s much better to cool the car down driving slowly than by stopping straight away.

I’ve been racing for years and never used a computer game to learn a new track. I do find watching an incar YouTube video helpful. But that’s just my way. Which ever way you do it, it’s good to know the track layout. Some people stick a little circuit map in the car, again something I’ve never done.

Most track days have instructors on hand, take some lessons from them.

Go have fun and approach it like a spirited drive on the road but with no speed limits. The most important thing is to learn to be smooth, it not only saves wear on the car it’s the quickest way round. Do some research on racing lines. And to start off keep to braking in a straight line.

Most importantly have fun.

 

[nickprice]

Thanks for the feedback. Okay I'll leave the alignment for now and see how I get on.

Anyone know about the brake cooling ducts? Can I fit them myself? Do I need a lift?

 

[Oneball]

Is it just the Z51 lower rear ones you want to fit?

I think they just clip onto the lower arm. As long as you’re capable of jacking a car up I doubt you need a lift.

 

[Chevrolet]

Seems to be some good advice in here (maybe most of it in the manual anyway?)

 

[teamzr1]

Z51 Track Setup Information - Brake Burnishing, Suspension & Alignment Setting

Vehicles without Z51 package should not be used for track events and competitive driving.

High-performance features are intended for use only on closed tracks by experienced and qualified drivers and should not be used on public roads. High-speed driving, aggressive cornering, hard braking, and other high-performance driving can be dangerous.
Improper driver inputs for the conditions may result in loss of control of the vehicle, which could injure or kill you or others. Always drive safely.
Participating in track events or other competitive driving without following the instructions provided may affect the vehicle warranty. See the warranty manual before using the vehicle for racing or other competitive driving.

Be sure to follow all service procedures before driving the vehicle at track events or competitively.

Prior to each track event and again before returning to public roads, tighten the wheel nuts with a torque wrench to the proper torque specification.
Wheel nuts that are improperly or incorrectly tightened can cause the wheels to become loose or come off, resulting in a crash.

If equipped, the front license plate bracket should be removed and replaced with the aero cover for track use.

Engine Sound Management Setting
Do not place the vehicle in Engine Sound Management Stealth mode. Damage could result to exhaust valve actuators.

Engine Oil
If the vehicle is used for track events and competitive driving, the engine may use more oil than it would with normal use. Low oil levels can damage the engine.
Check the oil level often and maintain the proper level. Check the oil level often during track events and competitive driving.

Fuel
Unleaded gasoline, rated at 93 octane or higher, is required. Some high octane fuels contain additives and compounds that may damage the vehicle and void the vehicle warranty.

Dual Clutch Transmission Fluid

The transmission fluid and external filter should be changed after every 24 hours of track usage.
If prompted by the transmission fluid life monitor that remaining fluid life is low, the fluid and external filter should be changed as soon as possible.
Add an additional 2 L (2 qt) of DCT transmission fluid prior to track usage. It is not required to remove the additional 2 L (2 qt) of DCT fluid. Any transmission level set or change should be performed at your dealer.

Brake Fluid

Replace existing brake fluid with a qualified high performance brake fluid from a sealed container. Brake fluid with a dry boiling point >310 °C (590 °F) is qualified. If high performance brake fluid is used, replace it with GM approved brake fluid before driving on public roads.
If high performance brake fluid is in the vehicle and the age of the brake fluid is over a month old or unknown, replace the brake fluid before track events and competitive driving. Do not use silicone or DOT-5 brake fluids. Check the fluid level before each competitive driving event.

Brake Fade Warning Assist

The Brake Fade Warning Assist system monitors the performance of the brake system. If the system detects brake fade, or if the brake fluid is near the boiling point, the driver will be alerted.
The Brake Fade Warning Assist system is designed for use with the factory-installed brake pads or GM-approved replacement pads.
If the brake pads on the vehicle need to be replaced, use GM-approved brake pads.
If this is not done, the brake fade warning system may not function properly.

Stage 1 : The Driver Information Center (DIC) displays a “Reduce Braking to Avoid Overheating” message and brake pedal effort and travel is increased. When the message displays, the driver should decrease brake pedal pressure.

Stage 2 : The Driver Information Center (DIC) displays a “Brakes Overheated Service Now” message that the brake fluid temperature is excessive and is about to boil.
The system increases brake pedal effort and travel, and will also limit vehicle speed. The driver should immediately start a cool down lap if on the track. If this message displays, take the vehicle to be serviced at your dealer.

Brake Burnishing
New brake pads must be burnished before racing or other competitive driving.

Performing the brake burnish procedure on a base brake system can result in brake damage.

The new vehicle break-in period should be completed before performing the brake burnish procedure, otherwise damage may occur to the powertrain/engine.

Brake pedal fade will occur during any track burnish procedure and can cause brake pedal travel and force to increase. This could extend stopping distance until the brakes are fully burnished.
When this procedure is performed as instructed, it will not damage the brakes.

The brake pads will smoke and produce an odor. The braking force and pedal travel may increase. After the procedure, the brake pads may appear white at the rotor contact.
Perform this procedure only on dry pavement, in a safe manner, and in compliance with all local and state ordinances/laws regarding motor vehicle operation.

Brake Burnishing Procedure

This brake burnish procedure should only be run on vehicles with the J55 Z51 factory equipped brake system.
1. Apply the brakes 25 times starting at 100 km/h (60 mph) to 50 km/h (30 mph) while decelerating at 0.4 g. This is a medium brake application.
Drive for at least 1 km (0.6 mi) between applying the brakes. This first step may be skipped if there are more than 320 km (200 mi) on the brake pads.

2. Apply the brakes 25 times starting at 100 km/h (60 mph) to 25 km/h (15 mph) while decelerating at 0.8 g. This is a hard brake application without activating the Antilock Brake System (ABS). Drive for at least 1 km (0.6 mi) between applications.
Depending on conditions, some increase in brake pedal travel and brake pedal force may be experienced.

3. Cool down: Drive at 100 km/h (60 mph) for approximately 15 km (10 mi) without using the brakes.

4. Apply the brakes 25 times from 100 km/h (60 mph) to 50 km/h (30 mph) while decelerating at 0.4 g.
This is a medium brake application. Drive for at least 1 km (0.6 mi) between applications.

As with all high performance brake systems, some amount of brake squeal is normal.

 

[teamzr1]

Alternative Closed Course Brake Burnishing Procedure
This brake burnish procedure should only be run on vehicles with the J55 Z51 factory equipped brake system. This procedure should only be run on a track and only on dry pavement.
Brake pedal fade will occur during this track burnish procedure and can cause brake pedal travel and force to increase.
This could extend stopping distance until the brakes are fully burnished.
1. Start track lapping at lower speeds and lower braking efforts for three minutes of driving.
Allow for increased braking distances due to reduced brake output.
2. After Step 1, increase speed and braking effort for the next six minutes of lapping, gradually ending up at 90% effort. Continue to allow for increased braking distance due to reduced brake output.
3. Cool the brakes by lapping with minimal light braking for six minutes.
Brake Cooling Kit
Prior to any track event, high speed driving event, or competitive driving, the following should be completed: Ensure all brake cooling parts are correctly and securely installed.
Inspect for and remove any blockage in the ducts. Inspect and replace any duct that has damage.
Shock Spring Seat Adjustment
The front shocks, on vehicles without hydraulic front lift and rear shocks, have threaded spring seats that allow adjustment of the preload on the coil springs. The vehicle corner weights can be adjusted for track use. If the vehicle trim height is modified, it should be returned to normal trim height before street use.
The spring seat can be adjusted approximately 20mm (0.8 in) up or down from the nominal position. Each complete turn of the spring seat will change the vehicle height approximately 1.5 mm (0.06 in). When adjusting the seat to the upper limit, lift the dust boot and ensure the seat does not thread off the center support tube (stop adjustment when threads no longer visible).
When adjusting the seat to the lower limit, leave approximately 10mm (0.4 in) of thread visible for the lower lock nut to have full thread engagement.
To adjust the lower spring seat:
1. Raise the vehicle so the tires are completely off the ground.
2. Loosen the lower spring seat lock nut (2).
3. Thread the lower spring seat lock nut (2) downward off of the threads to its resting location on the shoulder of the center support tube.
4. While holding the center support tube holes, turn the spring seat (1) upward to increase spring preload, or downward to decrease spring preload.
5. Thread the lower lock nut (2) back on to the center support tube and torque it against the spring seat (1) to 25Y (18.4 lb ft).
Load Limit
Limit vehicle load to the driver only, with no other cargo. Inflate the front tires to 159 kPa (23 psi) and the rear tires to 165 kPa (24 psi). Drive at a maximum speed of 296 km/h (184 mph). Road Course target hot pressures of 220–240 kPa (32–35 psi). Value will vary based on driving style, track, temperature, and weather conditions.
Wheel Alignment
Using these wheel alignment settings may cause excessive tire wear. Only use these wheel alignment settings for racing or competitive driving. Excessive tire wear is not covered under the vehicle warranty.
The racing and competitive driving wheel alignment settings should be set as described here.
To achieve the track alignment specified settings:
1. The upper control arm to body washers on all four corners will need to be moved from between the body and the control arm and relocated between the head of the bolt and the control arm.
2. Adjust the lower control arm cam bolt position to achieve the following specifications.
Front (per corner)
. Caster: +8.0 degrees
. Camber: -3.0 degrees
. Toe (total): 0.1 degrees toe in
Rear (per corner)
. Caster: 0 degrees
. Camber: -2.5 degrees
. Toe (total): 0.1 degrees toe in
. Thrust Angle: 0 degrees
After track use, reinstall washers between the body and the control arms. Reset to factory alignment settings.
General Information
If reduced performance is experienced during track events or competitive driving, turning off the A/C will help to improve engine performance.
Maintain a mixture of 40% DEX-COOL coolant and 60% clean, drinkable water to optimize engine performance.

 

[Stingray]

It can all get complicated or you can keep things simple.

The key thing IMO when putting any road car round a circuit is to remember it's a road car. i.e. it's much heavier than any race car AND its brakes aren't designed to be thrashed within an inch of their lives and the tyres aren't racing slicks. In reality I think this translates as have some fun but don't get too racy. You can easily destroy a set of brakes in a matter of minutes (overheating) and a set of tyres as well (heat and abrasion) - all of which can make for an expensive day out. Also a very inconvenient day out if your car isn't in a fit condition to drive home.

Depending where and with whom you're doing a track day you may want to have trackday insurance. In my experience there are two key hazards,
1. People in cheap cars who don't care if they crash into you, and
2. People in expensive cars with loads of money who don't care if they crash into you.

As regards your own driving it's nice if the circuit has decent run-off areas in case things get a bit squeaky. You don't really want to encounter the Armco. As a former F1 circuit Zandvoort probably have this covered. I've visited the circuit but not driven it at speed. There are some wonderful old posters of James Hunt (and others) in the clubhouse.

 

[teamzr1]

At the least, make sure the 2 extra liters of DCT fluid has been added to assure if any DCT problems GM will
not void warranty as that fluid is required
Extra fluid can be left in DCT from then on

You can install the brake cooling ducts and may find if I recall for street use only the bottom half of ducts being taken off.

 

[Chuffer]

Thanks for the feedback. Okay I'll leave the alignment for now and see how I get on.

Anyone know about the brake cooling ducts? Can I fit them myself? Do I need a lift?

As it`s your first track day I think you will find your level of skill / nerve will run out long before the capabilities of your car , especially a modern supercar like the C8 . So why spend money on upgrades uneccessarily unless you just want the braging rites . I have done several track days in the past plus a hill climb in various cars I have owned and I very soon learned where my capabilities came to an end !

 

[Oneball]

As it`s your first track day I think you will find your level of skill / nerve will run out long before the capabilities of your car , especially a modern supercar like the C8 . So why spend money on upgrades uneccessarily unless you just want the braging rites . I have done several track days in the past plus a hill climb in various cars I have owned and I very soon learned where my capabilities came to an end !

The Z51 comes with the rear lower brake ducts in the boot as they’re susceptible to picking up road debris. I’m guessing they’re what Nick is asking about.

 

[Chevrolet]

Anyone know about the brake cooling ducts? Can I fit them myself? Do I need a lift?

This shows them being fitted. Lift job? And definitely need the jacking pucks.

 

[DAN@ADRIAN FLUX]

Hi.
If you need any help with track day insurance at all then please feel free to drop me a line.
Regards,
Dan.

 

[James Vette]

Floor it. If it feels too fast then you're not going fast enough.

 

[nickprice]

As it`s your first track day I think you will find your level of skill / nerve will run out long before the capabilities of your car , especially a modern supercar like the C8 . So why spend money on upgrades uneccessarily unless you just want the braging rites . I have done several track days in the past plus a hill climb in various cars I have owned and I very soon learned where my capabilities came to an end !

I did my first track day last week. It was amazing fun. The advice was right, the car was way in advance of my skills!

Here's a little video of my last two laps.

Unfortunately the first session it was raining and wet. The second one the track dried up but there were still damp patches. Looking forward to doing a session in the dry. This is the description to the video which sums up my experience:

"These are the last two laps of my track day at Zandvoort (plus a couple of whoops at the end). I'm not sure why there's no car audio, bit of a bummer. It was my first time ever on a track and my first time driving the C8 hard(ish). The track was wet at the start and by the end was pretty dry but the rain was starting to come down again. Wow, so many things I did wrong but an awesome experience. Here's a brief list of the main things I learnt:

1. I didn't learn the track before going, still didn't know it by the time I left. I should have bought F1 22 for my xbox! Probably my biggest mistake. Just the scale of the track is so different to anything I'd driven before, I was also hitting apexes way too soon as the corners were much longer than I thought!
2. Hadn't learnt to use the flappy paddles properly. Got messed up trying to use the wipers, hitting the indicator, etc. Couldn't focus on gear selection properly cause I was so overwhelmed by everything else going on.
3. Had never really tested the brakes before. I was horribly under braking on a lot of the corners. No issues with any brake fade as I was almost road braking. Also didn't realise how much grip the car had! Never got anywhere near any understeer. Alignment change and the brake cooling ducts are not required at my standard (I had neither).
4. Had a full tank of fuel cause I was worried about running out on the track haha. Idiot.
5. A friend told me it was pointless in the wet as you won't learn anything about the car (especially running the Z51 summer tires). I ignored him. He was right as the experience was 1000x better when it finally dried out a bit.

... but most importantly I survived, the car survived and everyone else around me survived!

Additionally I loaded up the Zandvoort track as a GPX file but it didn't record my lap times properly which is a bummer. Maybe cause I started recording from the car park? At least it displayed it."

Bit annoyed that there is no sound. I thought I turned it on in the settings.

 

[Chuffer]

At least you had fun , that`s the main thing and leaving you wanting more . Pity about the wet conditions spoiling things . I well remember doing a track day as a total novice at Circuite de Folembray in France years ago in a tweaked and lowered Toyota MR2 I had at the time . Weather turned wet to wetter to a deluge when they called us all in off the circuit until the rain stopped . It certainly focuses the mind .

 

[Forrest Gump]

Good on you for taking your Corvette to the track. Being a racing driver is not as easy as it looks on television!
I‘m assuming the video with all the data displayed is a function built into a C8?

 

[nickprice]

Good on you for taking your Corvette to the track. Being a racing driver is not as easy as it looks on television!
I‘m assuming the video with all the data displayed is a function built into a C8?

Yep it's the Track Overlay of the PDR. It's pretty cool and useful to have empirical evidence of all the things I'm doing wrong!

 

[Stingray]

* You got out on track
* You didn't break the car
That's a result in my book!

Check out the shifts in this link from about 6 mins 30, and then figure the car didn't get beyond 5th gear at 120 mph. You'd have to be mighty accurate with the fingers to match that on the paddles.

On track there's something to be said for driving in auto with left foot braking IMO, although the car will go in search of 6th, 7th, 8th if not at WOT.
From the web, "Road course racers will likely spend most of their time hitting the paddles to go between second through fifth gear".

Glad you enjoyed!

 

[Oneball]

Time to get out for another go.