What have YOU being doing or are you planning to do with your Vette?

Nassau65

Nassau65

CCCUK Member
Chuffer said:
Which model was that ? the WK model V8 has the 5.7 Hemi and the SRT version had a 6.1 . Later model Grand Cherokee SRT`s were 6.4 litre I believe . I have a WK 5.7 Litre with upgraded induction . Lovely induction noise when you give it the beans and surprises quite a few people with it acceleartion as it`s a bit of Q car . It is RHD and my daily driver . As you say , one quick Jeep and I love it . Puts a smile on my face when not driving the Vette . :D
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Not sure what model it was, the standard grand Cherokee had a 5.2 motor, they then put the 5.9L magnum V8 in the grand Cherokee limited. It was a 1998 model and produced I think for only one year. It was the for runner of the SRT version fastest SUV produced at the time.
 
Chuffer

Chuffer

CCCUK Member
Nassau65 said:
Not sure what model it was, the standard grand Cherokee had a 5.2 motor, they then put the 5.9L magnum V8 in the grand Cherokee limited. It was a 1998 model and produced I think for only one year. It was the for runner of the SRT version fastest SUV produced at the time.
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I guessed it must have been a limited edition US market only with those engine variants . The 2005 to 2010 UK spec Grand Cherokee Hemi 5.7 was up there with the Porche Cayenne S at the time for performance and came with serious off roading capabilities rather than a ponced up Soccer Mom`s runabout that would shy away from a muddy puddle . :rolleyes: Plus it has a proper V8 . (y):D
 
Nassau65

Nassau65

CCCUK Member
Chuffer said:
I guessed it must have been a limited edition US market only with those engine variants . The 2005 to 2010 UK spec Grand Cherokee Hemi 5.7 was up there with the Porche Cayenne S at the time for performance and came with serious off roading capabilities rather than a ponced up Soccer Mom`s runabout that would shy away from a muddy puddle . :rolleyes: Plus it has a proper V8 . (y):D
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Had a look on the old nett, they did do it for Europe as well, but that didn’t include one for us in RHD. They were all LHD. He bought it through Clive Sutton, and it was the first one imported into the UK. It’s still going strong in Israel.
 
Chuffer

Chuffer

CCCUK Member
Nassau65 said:
Had a look on the old nett, they did do it for Europe as well, but that didn’t include one for us in RHD. They were all LHD. He bought it through Clive Sutton, and it was the first one imported into the UK. It’s still going strong in Israel.
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Grand Cherokees do seem to go on for evere if maintained properly . (y)
 
antijam

antijam

CCCUK Member
In the few weeks after acquiring my '71 I religiously changed all the cars fluids - engine oil, brake fluid, Differential lubricant, coolant and screenwash - but for some reason not the gearbox oil. Three years on it seems prudent to rectify this. Part of the reason for the delay was that I was unsure whether my transmission, that should be a four speed Muncie, had both drain and filler plugs or just a filler. On some Muncies the drain plug boss on the casting is left untapped.

So it's up on the ramps and and a crawl underneath that happily reveals I have both filler and drain plugs....

Plugs.jpg

Filler arrowed yellow, drain red. The plastic tube intruding into the top of the pic is what I will be using to refill the box.

While under the car it seems a good time to check whether I have a date correct box and even if it is indeed a Muncie. The serial number stamped on the casing is P1D13A. P indicates a Muncie (Muncie Plant) 1 refers to 1971, D to the fourth month, April, 13 the date and A shows it is a standard wide ratio 4-speed - which is what it should be. The most accurate build date I can find for my car is April 17th so an assembly date of April 13th for the transmission would suggest I probably have the original box.

I removed the plugs - the filler first, because if I remove the drain and find out the filler is immovable, I'm up a certain creek with out a paddle! Fortunately both unscrew easily and while the oil is draining I immerse the bottle containing its replacement in hot water to lower the viscosity which should make refilling easier.

Both the filler and drain plugs are the magnetic type and seem to have picked up very little swarf over the years - and certainly no broken teeth!

P1370535.JPG

With the old oil drained I replace the drain plug (wrapped with PTFE tape), insert my plastic tube into the filler hole....

P1370540.JPG

......and up in the engine bay, attach the other end to the spout on the oil bottle, securing it with a Ty-Rap.

P1370537.JPG

With steady squeezes on the bottle and occasional releases of air to let it regain its shape I discharge the whole litre into the box......which only just overfills.
With the filler plug refitted - also with a PTFE wrap - that's another job ticked off!
 
Oneball

Oneball

CCCUK Member
antijam said:
In the few weeks after acquiring my '71 I religiously changed all the cars fluids - engine oil, brake fluid, Differential lubricant, coolant and screenwash - but for some reason not the gearbox oil. Three years on it seems prudent to rectify this. Part of the reason for the delay was that I was unsure whether my transmission, that should be a four speed Muncie, had both drain and filler plugs or just a filler. On some Muncies the drain plug boss on the casting is left untapped.

So it's up on the ramps and and a crawl underneath that happily reveals I have both filler and drain plugs....

View attachment 14254

Filler arrowed yellow, drain red. The plastic tube intruding into the top of the pic is what I will be using to refill the box.

While under the car it seems a good time to check whether I have a date correct box and even if it is indeed a Muncie. The serial number stamped on the casing is P1D13A. P indicates a Muncie (Muncie Plant) 1 refers to 1971, D to the fourth month, April, 13 the date and A shows it is a standard wide ratio 4-speed - which is what it should be. The most accurate build date I can find for my car is April 17th so an assembly date of April 13th for the transmission would suggest I probably have the original box.

I removed the plugs - the filler first, because if I remove the drain and find out the filler is immovable, I'm up a certain creek with out a paddle! Fortunately both unscrew easily and while the oil is draining I immerse the bottle containing its replacement in hot water to lower the viscosity which should make refilling easier.

Both the filler and drain plugs are the magnetic type and seem to have picked up very little swarf over the years - and certainly no broken teeth!

View attachment 14255

With the old oil drained I replace the drain plug (wrapped with PTFE tape), insert my plastic tube into the filler hole....

View attachment 14256

......and up in the engine bay, attach the other end to the spout on the oil bottle, securing it with a Ty-Rap.

View attachment 14257

With steady squeezes on the bottle and occasional releases of air to let it regain its shape I discharge the whole litre into the box......which only just overfills.
With the filler plug refitted - also with a PTFE wrap - that's another job ticked off!
Click to expand...

Im sure my box has the chassis number stamped on it.
 
teamzr1

teamzr1

Supporting vendor
You might want to check on the 2 driveshaft U-joints as to see if any slop in them as worn needle bearings,
leaking grease out end caps and if having Zert fittings to grease them, also for clutch pedal and ball joints ?
 
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