Removal of wheel bearings with T55 torx

A

Andrew

CCCUK Member
Hi there people. Im planning to replace the rear wheel bearings on my '89 C4.

I have the 2 new bearings and am going to give it a go (even though its amateur night!)

I plan to use a 1/2 inch socket set breaker bar to remove the three T55 torx nuts each side.

Is this what i need to buy?
1726248913415.png
www.ebay.co.uk

T55 TORX BIT IMPACT SOCKET 1/2" Drive by US PRO TOOLS Length 60mm | eBay

T55 Torx Bit Impact Socket. Overall length - 60mm. 1/2" Drive. J W Auto Tools. One piece design.
www.ebay.co.uk


Any other advice and tips much appreciated. Im going to pop it up on axle stands on my driveway.

Personal worries: Will turning the 3 nuts with all my might cause the car to rock off the stands?
 
Steven Smith

Steven Smith

CCCUK Member
Not something I have done but there are plenty of videos on YouTube about doing it.
I would take the wheel, caliper and disc off the day before to get some penetrating spray on the threads of the hub bolts, I think I have read that the caliper bolts should be renewed after removing.
T55 is the correct size torx bit, just make sure you clean out the bolt tops to get maximum grip and keep it straight as you don't want to strip the thread.
 
teamzr1

teamzr1

Supporting vendor
Steven Smith said:
Not something I have done but there are plenty of videos on YouTube about doing it.
I would take the wheel, caliper and disc off the day before to get some penetrating spray on the threads of the hub bolts, I think I have read that the caliper bolts should be renewed after removing.
T55 is the correct size torx bit, just make sure you clean out the bolt tops to get maximum grip and keep it straight as you don't want to strip the thread.
Click to expand...

And find out what each torque ft/lb down is for each bolt as to GM specs and if specs call for some type of thread locker compound
 
A

Andrew

CCCUK Member
Thank you oneball, Steven and Team ZR1. You guys are the best.

yes steven- will clean out the ends of the bolts and put some spray in to loosen them up the day before

oneball-Will buy a teng or facom- good to have quality so not to round the end when the bolts are stiff.

Quite right to get right torque Zr1- the you tube video said 63lb ft torque
 
Steven Smith

Steven Smith

CCCUK Member
Just found this information on line:


To install rear wheel bearing:

10.Inspect the wheel hub and bearing seal, replace if necessary. Also inspect the wheel spindle washer and replace, if damaged or excessively worn.
11.Install the wheel hub and bearing, caliper mounting plate and the wheel spindle washer. The washer flat should firmly seat against the shoulder of the wheel spindle. The lip of the washer should face the wheel spindle splines prior to hub and bearing installation.
12.Install the wheel hub mounting bolts and tighten to 66 ft. lbs. (90 Nm).
13.Install the washer and spindle nut, and hand-tighten.
14.Install the wheel retainer and a new cotter pin.
15.If removed, connect the transverse spring to the knuckle.
16.Install the brake rotor, then install the caliper and parking brake assembly.
17.With an assistant depressing the brake pedal to prevent the wheel from turning, tighten the spindle nut to 164 ft. lbs. (223 Nm). The vehicle should not rest on the tires or move until the spindle nut is tightened.
Fig. 11: With an assistant depressing the brake pedal, ti
ghten the hub nut to specifications
 
Last edited:
teamzr1

teamzr1

Supporting vendor
Andrew said:
The facom version was £193- so a bit too classy for my budget!

The teng version i can handle:

is this it?

View attachment 27926
Click to expand...

The first one you pointed to T55 TORX BIT IMPACT SOCKET which is stronger and should take more torque
Where the one above does not say it is an impact type, so not sure if it can handle that amount of torque needed ?
 
P

Pinhead

CCCUK Member
Not done a C4 but transit vans have torx bits holding the hubs on and they need to be removed to get the brake disc off going in through small holes
I found after destroying a few torx bits that a good crack with a hammer in the right place has them come out nice and easy
 
A

Andrew

CCCUK Member
thanks guys. in one of the you tube tutorials the guy just buzzes them off with an impact socket in a few seconds and the other (the more low budget version) on the driveway just uses these.

ill try the US pro one at £5.50 and work upwards!
1726426265638.png


i found this tutorial very useful and have made notes from it.

 
A

Andrew

CCCUK Member
This is what the you tube guy says to do:

1) Jack up car safely on the 2 specific triangular metal jacking points just inboard of rear wheel.+support on axle stands
2)Remove wheel nuts and wheel
3)Remove split pin
4)Remove crown nut
5) remove 36mm nut holding disc
6)remove brake caliper and hang it off one bolt
7)oil up the 3x torx bolts with penetrating stuff (leave overnight maybe)
8) remove 3xT55 torx bolts
9) Stick a screwdriver to prise bearing off
10) Teflon anti noise washer will fall off- grab it and fit it back on with flare to outside (all with red mobil 1 grease on spline)
11) Put new AC Delco bearing on and refit things.
 
Steven Smith

Steven Smith

CCCUK Member
Andrew said:
This is what the you tube guy says to do:

1) Jack up car safely on the 2 specific triangular metal jacking points just inboard of rear wheel.+support on axle stands
2)Remove wheel nuts and wheel
3)Remove split pin
4)Remove crown nut
5) remove 36mm nut holding disc
6)remove brake caliper and hang it off one bolt
7)oil up the 3x torx bolts with penetrating stuff (leave overnight maybe)
8) remove 3xT55 torx bolts
9) Stick a screwdriver to prise bearing off
10) Teflon anti noise washer will fall off- grab it and fit it back on with flare to outside (all with red mobil 1 grease on spline)
11) Put new AC Delco bearing on and refit things.
Click to expand...
Sounds about right.
 
A

Andrew

CCCUK Member
Jack is on xmas list. My cill extensions are so wide on the bodykit that the handle on the factory jack wouldn't turn so I cut it off and now it works by 12mm spanner
 

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A

Andrew

CCCUK Member
Steven Smith said:
Just found this information on line:


To install rear wheel bearing:

10.Inspect the wheel hub and bearing seal, replace if necessary. Also inspect the wheel spindle washer and replace, if damaged or excessively worn.
11.Install the wheel hub and bearing, caliper mounting plate and the wheel spindle washer. The washer flat should firmly seat against the shoulder of the wheel spindle. The lip of the washer should face the wheel spindle splines prior to hub and bearing installation.
12.Install the wheel hub mounting bolts and tighten to 66 ft. lbs. (90 Nm).
13.Install the washer and spindle nut, and hand-tighten.
14.Install the wheel retainer and a new cotter pin.
15.If removed, connect the transverse spring to the knuckle.
16.Install the brake rotor, then install the caliper and parking brake assembly.
17.With an assistant depressing the brake pedal to prevent the wheel from turning, tighten the spindle nut to 164 ft. lbs. (223 Nm). The vehicle should not rest on the tires or move until the spindle nut is tightened.
Fig. 11: With an assistant depressing the brake pedal, ti
ghten the hub nut to specifications
Click to expand...
my pin thing was so rusty it snapped off- is that a corvette specific part?
 
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