Oneball
CCCUK Member
Yes, I reckon it’s about 2-3 inches deeper than standard. It’s the sort Greenwood used in 1972 but for Le Mans in 73 they went to a deeper one.
C3 Race Car Build
- Thread starter Oneball
- Start date
Yes, I reckon it’s about 2-3 inches deeper than standard. It’s the sort Greenwood used in 1972 but for Le Mans in 73 they went to a deeper one.
teamzr1
Supporting vendor
Maybe the angle of photo, but looks like air would get under and create lift at speed.
I tend to go lower in front spoiler but because of running higher speeds be
Brake cooler hoses to the outer edges and used center to flow colder air in for radiator and intake air
My #94 ZR-1
I tend to go lower in front spoiler but because of running higher speeds be
Brake cooler hoses to the outer edges and used center to flow colder air in for radiator and intake air
My #94 ZR-1
Oneball
CCCUK Member
Maybe could go a bit lower but there a 100mm min ground clearance rule. This is early ‘70s even prototypes and CanAm didn’t run all that low then.
James Vette
CCCUK Member
What car shows are you taking this to? Probably next year now. 
Oneball
CCCUK Member
It only really does the same job as a bit of string and you still need a bit of string to get the tracking equal both sides at the rear. You can also double check with a straight edge against the tyre and look down it to see where it’s pointing and compare with the other side.That looks a flash bit of kit, shame you don't live nearer to me as you could have done my alignment for me
Oneball
CCCUK Member
What car shows are you taking this to? Probably next year now.
I get bored with car shows, haven’t been to one for a few years.
Corvette Kingdom
Supporting vendor
Looks awesome Tim, superb job.
Oneball
CCCUK Member
Thanks Scott, was hoping to get it out for a drive round the block this weekend but it might be next week looking at the forecast.
Oneball
CCCUK Member
Front geometry now partially setup, caster and camber done, need to do the tracking. Drained the cooling system and replaced the stainless bolt in the water pump with a mild steel one and coated in Loctite so fingers crossed it’ll stop leaking. Oil catch tank mounted too.
Getting cold after work now!
Getting cold after work now!
Forrest Gump
CCCUK regional rep
How much caster did you manage to get?
Roscobbc
Moderator
Leaking water pump. Leaking from one of the bolts? - which one? - I had (possibly still have) this issue caused by someone in the past perhaps 'bottoming-out' one of the bolts in the block and stripping the thread. Several attempts to Helicoil haven't been very succesful. Can't drill any deeper in case I 'pierce' the waterway.
Finally I used studding instead of a bolt and using Locktite overnight managed to get a more secure fixing. This seems to have held quite well for a year or so (so far) and using two gaskets (instead of one)
Finally I used studding instead of a bolt and using Locktite overnight managed to get a more secure fixing. This seems to have held quite well for a year or so (so far) and using two gaskets (instead of one)
Oneball
CCCUK Member
Cant remember now, will have to have a look at the board in the morning, around 2.5-3 I think
Oneball
CCCUK Member
It’s the one that goes into the water jacket. The other 3 are blind.
Roscobbc
Moderator
Ah! - yes Big Block has 'blind' holes throughout - didn't realise SBC had that potential issue. Perhaps the studding 'fix' for me is applicable for your application - i.e using a 'sized' length of studding or (stainless if available - perhaps) with plenty of Locktite/sealant on the thread. Hmmmm freshly built engines on 'seasoned' blacks are always 'decked' - other surfaces are generally left as is - water pump mounting surfaces are quite small and inadquate IMHO - weeping coolant over the years corroding the surface won't help matters - must remember next time I have a 'seasoned' engine built ('er never!) to check all accessory mounting platforms........
Oneball
CCCUK Member
It’s the tapping that’s leaking round the bolt not the gasket surface.
i think stainless bolt might be part of the problem, stainless is very hard so won’t deform hence I’ve tired a mild steel bolt.
antijam
CCCUK Member
I don't know which Loctite you're using Tim, but I've had great success sealing thread leaks - and in one case porosity in a 200 bar hydraulic pump - with Loctite 290. It's a low viscosity 'wicking' sealant so can often usefully be applied after assembly. It not only seals under pressure but is a good thread lock too.
Oneball
CCCUK Member
518 which is a semi setting flange sealant (non-silicone)