Being I had lowered my 1999 C5 as low as it would go I then went with the Penske race shocks also designed to be shorter and mounted
upsidedown to reduce unspung weight.
I then added a bump stop at bottom end to prevent bottoming out
I then mini tubbed the inner fenders and trimmed the end of springs, so 12-inch wide rims would fit and not showing past the rear quarter panel
These are further adjusted by Nitrogen, some info on that :
The nitrogen charge in gas shocks is essential to keep them working properly.
If the charge is too low, the oil will break down and the damper won't perform correctly and consistently.
Adding gas pressure above the minimum required will simulate a stiffer spring rate in the suspension, as now a higher force is required to compress the shock and spring due to the added force from the gas charge acting on the cross-section area of the damper shaft.
Although the shaft diameter isn't massive (5/8"), pressure acting on this will have an effect.
The canister knob affects compression damping only. If you have a knob with 6 positions. 1 = softest, 6 = stiffest.
If C5 is bottoming out over big bumps or the car feels like it's moving around too much, try going to a stuffer setting.
If the car feels too harsh and lacking grip, go to a softer setting.
The rebound adjuster will be at the other end of the shock on the end of the chrome shaft.
This adjuster makes the rebound stiffer when you turn it clockwise.
This adjuster controls roll stiffness and will help if the car takes a few oscillations to settle down after a bump.
Again, if the car feels like it's moving around too much or a bit lazy on turn in, I will want to go to a stiffer setting.
If the car gets a little tail happy or light in the rear when on the brakes, you may want to add a little rear rebound.
If the car is under steering, say on a corner out on power, I may want to add some front rebound.