Electric Radiator Fans
- Thread starter Oneball
- Start date
Calipers-twin pin J56. If you’re not too far from Bexley I have TT 10x15 and 8.5 x15 to see if they suit.
Nick B
CCCUK Member
I haven't touched the brakes on my '71 but they look bog standard and yes they will lock up the wheels.
Oneball
CCCUK Member
Twin vs single pin calipers are a slight quandary because there’s a greater range of single pin pads.
Assuming they’re the standard backspace, yes those are the size I’m thinking of. I’m in Worcester.
kentvette
CCCUK Member
Absolutely! I'm not a subscriber to the "bad brake" opinion. I fitted new S/S lined, O-Ring callipers all round on ours back in about 2006 and have had no complaints. The pedal is firm, with only about an inch or so travel and in fact only quite recently I locked up the wheels to avoid an oncoming lorry! I didn't really have actual braking issues before the O-Rings, but they did need bleeding every year, and I mean "needed"! The new ones do not. I think things may be different on a race car, but I'm also not a fan at all of silicone fluid on road cars and would never have it on the Corvette.
Can't beat TTs on an "old school Corvette racer! (I'd love them on our '78, but I'd go for TTIIs....)
Daytona Vette
Well-known user
On a C3 you need to go bigger Discs for real improvement in stopping power and that means taller wheels etc, but that aside the biggest issue with C3 Brakes is Brake fade from repeated heavy use on fast road work - finding the right Pads.
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Oneball
CCCUK Member
Modern brake compounds and fluids can deal with that to some extent. Not that EBC crap. Look at Hawk or Performance Friction.
Roscobbc
Moderator
I've been using Hawk HP+ (I think) for the last few years - and the're OK when warmed-up. I just have to remember after start-up and first 1/2 mile drive to leave in first/second and drive with left foot on brake to get some heat build-up. Yes, theoretically larger discs (13" and 14") are an option for improving efficiency (I do have 18" wheels). Whilst I support the theory of larger discs I still remain to be convinced about the £3K - £4K cost of something like Wilwood or Baer and any extra retardation etc. A number of owners over there on the USA CF have done this - none of them other than commenting "the brakes feel much better - the're great - or similar" offer any proof - I remain unconvinced. A properly measured comparison test with various brakes types perhaps would convince.
Worcester is 150 mile west. I can take measurements with pics or courier the 10x15 and you send it back? It has a 295 50 15 tyre. I can’t think of any other wheel part from Daisy mags that would look right/period. Shopcwo on eBay are cheapest with global shipping. I too have Hawk twin pin pads following recommendation.
Oneball
CCCUK Member
If you can send a pick that’d be great, have they been on a Vette, apparently certain variations of the TT dont fit over Vette calipers?
How much do you want for them?
Forrest Gump
CCCUK regional rep
(Back onto electric fans) I don't know if it makes any difference in practice, but I've the temperature sender in the top of the radiator as opposed to in the cylinder head. It's a Kenlowe fan with a Kenlowe controller with a thin probe that locates in the radiator vanes, see photo. Perhaps the logic of having it there is that the fan is only switched on when water temp in radiator reaches the set-point, as opposed to the water temp in the heads??
The impellers on this Kenlowe fan are wide. It can shift some air. No shroud.
Kenlowe controller and relay module. Fan "on" temperature can be set.
The impellers on this Kenlowe fan are wide. It can shift some air. No shroud.
Kenlowe controller and relay module. Fan "on" temperature can be set.
I used to use a Kenlowe with the probe up in the water hose. Sealed Ali panels directing as much air as poss to the rad is what you need at race speeds.
wheels. My 8.5 x 10” did scuff the calliper. 1/8” spacer or a grinder sorts it. Below is my 10x15”. Et43 . 4” back space. Mine are not for sale but if you go that route I wlll triple check mounted back on a car. I had them on a 69 with no probs but will re check before your place order.
wheels. My 8.5 x 10” did scuff the calliper. 1/8” spacer or a grinder sorts it. Below is my 10x15”. Et43 . 4” back space. Mine are not for sale but if you go that route I wlll triple check mounted back on a car. I had them on a 69 with no probs but will re check before your place order.
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Chris Sale
CCCUK Member
Back on the topic of how effective C2 / C3 brakes are,.....
Since replacing the front drum brakes on my '64 with standard C2 disc brakes back in the early 2000s I have never had a problem with brake fade. This includes many trips on Welsh mountain roads, on which my drums were 'exciting' to say the least. Twice now on these drives I have had cases where friends following me in serious modern sports cars (no, I won't say what models!) disappeared from the rear view mirror, and when we met up they said they had to slow down because their brakes couldn't take the punishment.
Chris Sale
'64 Coupe
Since replacing the front drum brakes on my '64 with standard C2 disc brakes back in the early 2000s I have never had a problem with brake fade. This includes many trips on Welsh mountain roads, on which my drums were 'exciting' to say the least. Twice now on these drives I have had cases where friends following me in serious modern sports cars (no, I won't say what models!) disappeared from the rear view mirror, and when we met up they said they had to slow down because their brakes couldn't take the punishment.
Chris Sale
'64 Coupe
CaptainK
CCCUK Member
I was the same with my standard manual brakes (aka not power brakes), on my C3. It was dreadful and it was concerning to drive the car as it gave me no confidence in it. Had a retrofit power brake conversion fitted to my car and its like chalk and cheese. So much better now and the brakes are so effective. I should add that only a new power brake master cylinder and power brake booster made this difference - the calipers, discs and pads were not changed.
