What have YOU being doing or are you planning to do with your Vette?

kentvette

CCCUK Member
Steve, I found this video quite useful.

I used this chap's method today. I have to say, it was the best method I have seen. We didn't have a magnet like his handy, so had to use the wire method (and a finger behind the pin!) on both pins, but it worked OK.

The springs are a REAL pain! The first was OK, but the second, top one - blimey! But his method of a mini "pick" was the way to go. It took more than a few attempts, but they are in now and hopefully the TA will go back on the car tomorrow... The I start the other side!
 

Roscobbc

Moderator
I used this chap's method today. I have to say, it was the best method I have seen. We didn't have a magnet like his handy, so had to use the wire method (and a finger behind the pin!) on both pins, but it worked OK.

The springs are a REAL pain! The first was OK, but the second, top one - blimey! But his method of a mini "pick" was the way to go. It took more than a few attempts, but they are in now and hopefully the TA will go back on the car tomorrow... The I start the other side!
Take an old screwdriver - with an angle grinder put a notch in the side of the blade - then use that to squeeze in, hook the end of the spring and pull 'n' lever over in to position. Still a faff but doable
 

kentvette

CCCUK Member
Take an old screwdriver - with an angle grinder put a notch in the side of the blade - then use that to squeeze in, hook the end of the spring and pull 'n' lever over in to position. Still a faff but doable
I've actually had a "proper" brake spring tool for years. It's along the same lines, but I just have never had any success with it, even trying with the spindle removed. I home made thing may be better - it certainly can't be any worse! :D
 

maxuk15

CCCUK Member
Late on this but use a small punch to get it moving or drill it out.
You won't be using the trailing arm bolts again !!!!
Good luck
 

kentvette

CCCUK Member
The right side of the car is all re-assembled, bar one thing. When trying to re-fit the brake line to the flexible hose I discovered that the "flare nut" was almost solid on the pipe and no amount of penetrating oil will free it. Strangely I hadn't really noticed it when undoing it. So, new pipes are on the way, when the covid restrictions on UK exports to Europe are lifted! But, the shipment when it comes will also include brake hoses, as on the left side of the car the flare nut rounded off as soon as I tried to free it, even with my posh Mac Tools line wrench! I was not amused. I just hope the brake hoses come off - I don't want to go further back up the braking system!

On the plus side, the TA pivot bolt split pin came out and the nut turned off easily enough and the bolt is turning freely....
 

kentvette

CCCUK Member
Great news Stephen.
Top effort all round.
Early Happy New Year ........
Brake line now free from hose. TA removed from car, handbrake shoes removed ready for unbolting carrier unit... But, can we shift the spindle nut?? Can we heck! A buddy is coming round tomorrow with an oxyacetylene torch, to put a bit of heat into it! That should be fun! Can't believe that I'd managed to get it so tight when I fitted the flange a few years ago.

But, a plus again is that the bushes on the second TA are even worse than the first! Talke about "shot"
8686

In case I go up in flames tomorrow - a Happy New Year to all! :D 🍾
 

Adtheman

Well-known user
ARP bolts too! Let us know how it performs with this new set-up 👍
yes the bolts i was told are the best also look good too. i'm hoping it will be smoother and therefore a lot nicer to drive maybe even a few more horses.The original manifold was not compatible with the old Holley someone had bodged on. I just cant decide whether to use braided stainless fuel hose with chrome ends to complete the look but the runs are short and the ends bulky so may fit new rubber ones for now and see.
 

Chuffer

CCCUK Member
yes the bolts i was told are the best also look good too. i'm hoping it will be smoother and therefore a lot nicer to drive maybe even a few more horses.The original manifold was not compatible with the old Holley someone had bodged on. I just cant decide whether to use braided stainless fuel hose with chrome ends to complete the look but the runs are short and the ends bulky so may fit new rubber ones for now and see.
I had black - 8 Braided Race hose with -8 Sport Crimp Hose Ends made up for my 750 Holley on an Edelbrock Torker 2 single plain manifold . This did away with the mish mash of short lengths of rubber hose , bits of fuel pipe and numerous jubilee clips that came on the car .Corvette Engine Bay.JPGCorvette Engine Bay 2.JPGCorvette Engine Bay 2.JPG
 

Roscobbc

Moderator
Just remember if you use a length of stainless braided rubber core fuel line that it is specifcially rated for use with petrol (and specifically ethanol based petrol) as some of the aftermarket fuel lines on the market a few years ago were sub standard quality and a very definate fire hazard. I wasn't alone in using this and six month later the rubber started to perish and 'weep' out fuel. I was lucky in seeing this happen and changing the fuel line - others were less lucky and had underhood fires.......
 

antijam

CCCUK Member
Just remember if you use a length of stainless braided rubber core fuel line that it is specifcially rated for use with petrol (and specifically ethanol based petrol) as some of the aftermarket fuel lines on the market a few years ago were sub standard quality and a very definate fire hazard. I wasn't alone in using this and six month later the rubber started to perish and 'weep' out fuel. I was lucky in seeing this happen and changing the fuel line - others were less lucky and had underhood fires.......

I had exactly the same problem on a recently restored car. Unbraided ethanol proof hose is marked with its compliance standard, typically SAE J30 R6 or SAE J30 R9, but metal braided hose is not. Do make sure your hose is guaranteed by the supplier to meet one of these standards. Demon Tweeks is one such supplier.
 
Top