Exciting day - rebuild of 78 coupe

[johng]

Yes, I took everything out of the doors except the interior handles and latches

 

[Oneball]

Have you tried adjusting the the top of the rear slide so it’s further out from the car?

 

[johng]

Yes I've been fully out to fully in. Fully in is best, that pulls the bottom of the glass inwards and pushes the top out, just nowhere near enough.

 

[Oneball]

What about the bottom of the runner? Can you get it in the wrong hole I’ve a feeling there’s two bolt holes on the bottom of the runner but could be wrong.

 

[johng]

I'll have a look tomorrow, would be nice if it's that simple.

 

[johng]

Only one hole in the runners and one hole in the door, so no simple fix there. Still I can always drive the car with the windows wound down a bit, so I got on with something else.

 

[Chuffer]

Love the steering wheel cover ! Is that a modern take on the classic Dell Boy sheepskin steering wheel cover ?
Good luck with all that wiring , it looks just like mine did when I had the dash and centre console apart . Like an explosion in a spaghetti factory !
A real pain that your window alignment is causing so much trouble . Was it ok before you stripped the car or did you inherit the problem ?

 

[johng]

There wasn't a problem shutting the windows when I got the car, the glass flopped about all over the place! It's odd because I've cleaned and greased all the rollers and made sure they all rotate freely in all directions, but I haven't replaced any of them as there was no discernible wear in any of them. I'm beginning to wonder whether my problem might be looseness in the pivot between the 2 regulator arms. There is a fair bit of slop there although that didn't seem to cause a problem previously.

 

[Chuffer]

This is a real puzzlement Looseness in the pivot will not help matters . Are they manual or power wind ? I am really flying kites now but if power wind , is the motor and drive gear mounted securely and well aligned ? There was a lot of rattling , clanking and window wobble on my drivers side and found that the motor was not fitted properly and a mounting plate / bracket bodged up . This caused the motor to move under load . I made up a bracket and bolted it in place to support the motor . Needless to say the passenger side was and still is perfect because it hardly gets any use.

 

[johng]

They are power, I had to drill out the rivets to remove them, but they are bolted back through the same holes and feel solid.

 

[Chuffer]

I am really running out of suggestions now

 

[johng]

I've left the windows for now and got on with a few other bits, it's amazing how long small jobs can take. I spent over an hour fitting the number plate light!! Because I've now got a non standard rear bumper the bits underneath it don't necessarily line up. I'd checked that the number plate light would fit, but I didn't check with the bulb plugged in! There was some rubber and steel in the way, the "easy" way to cut this out would be to remove the rear bumper. Not surprisingly I wasn't keen on this, so I set about cutting the rubber and steel through the small opening for the number plate light. It would have quicker to take the bumper off. After that I wanted to do something a bit more noticeable, so I put the rear carpet and speedo console in and finished assembling the steering column. Just to finish off I also fitted and wired up the headlights. Just waiting to see if Santa brings me a couple of halogen main beam units.

 

[Oneball]

Carpet looks good, is it new?

 

[johng]

Yes, good old Rockauto

 

[johng]

Refitted the centre console today, but in my hardware bag for this I had this brass bit. Anyone know where it goes?

 

[johng]

Thought I'd fit the new radio I got for Christmas today, but ran into a bit of a puzzle with the antenna wiring. My wiring diagrams show power and earth running directly to the antenna relay, but on the car there is another small box of electronics between the power supplies and the relay. The way it is currently wired the antenna goes up whenever you turn on the ignition regardless of whether the radio is switched on. Anyone know what the box of electronics is (it seems to have a couple of resistors, diodes and a transistor in it) and more importantly how it's supposed to be wired.

 

[Oneball]

This is a complete guess but perhaps it is a way of using a more modern radio that has a signal wire to trigger the aerial.

 

[johng]

Don't think so, the original radio has a signal wire to trigger the antenna but it wasn't connected to anything in my car, just hanging loose. The thing is the additional box looks like it is original equipment as it has a proper loom that connects to the relay. There are a plenty of crimp connector bodges in my wiring, but this doesn't look like one of them.


If need be I can rewire the relay as per this drawing and do away with the original box, but I'd like to at least understand why it is there.

 

[Oneball]

Do the yellow and red wires from the grey box connect to your radio?

In normal radio colouring they are battery and switched power, but according to that wiring diagram not how the oem radio is wired.

 

[johng]

At the moment the yellow and red are both live with the ignition on, but I'm pretty sure that is a bodge because there are 4 or 5 wires all connected together, one of which has a label BATT and another has a label IGN. The radio itself should have one permanent live and one switched live, but it again has both switched with the ignition. I'll probably end up re-wiring it as per the diagram, but I really want to know what the grey box is!