Engine issues - advice needed

MilkyNoSugar

CCCUK Member
My journey to the Nationals on Sunday was cut rather short by an engine failure. I am not too sure how big/bad at this stage but it sounded terminal.

It is a 1972 454 big block on 54000 miles, and other than a recent air intake and carb upgrade is pretty much stock. Convertible 4 speed manual, power steering but no air con. It has been mine for just over a year.

First of all, thanks to the two Corvette drivers who stopped to make sure I was ok. Mark Brailsford, and the other chap whose name I cannot remember in a metallic orange c3.

M1 southbound just before J20 and doing 65 ish, what started out as a tapping noise from the drivers side, very quickly turned into a bag of spanners rattling. I dipped the clutch and pulled over as quickly and safely as I could. By the time I came to a standstill on the hard shoulder, the engine had cut out. I noticed the oil pressure had dropped significantly but cannot remember if that was before or after the car cut out - it was all a bit sudden.

I opened the bonnet expecting to see everything coated in oil, but nothing, not a drop anywhere in the engine bay or under the car.

I got recovered home by Unity, provided through the recovery service of my ClassicLine insurance policy. Excellent service was provided by both Unity and ClassicLine with welfare calls to me every 10 to 15 minutes to update me and make sure I was ok. Picked up just over an hour after calling and back home with the car in the garage by lunchtime.

I have checked the oil and coolant with the engine cold. Both are still full and both are still separate so no significant gasket failures or internal damage based on that very rudimentary check.

Assuming (perhaps incorrectly) I could not make it much worse, I did remove the coil lead and turned it over on the starter for a very brief moment, and it turned without any problems and did not sound too different than normal.

My suspicion is a timing gear failure, could be worse, could be much less but do not know.


Work and other commitments meant today is the first time I have been able to think about doing anything with the car.



My questions are;

What are the sensible next steps?
Do I just try and start it and see what happens - perhaps not sensible I know?
Is it worth getting the rocker covers off and see if there is anything noticeable?
Getting to the timing gears looks possible, albeit slightly challenged due to the large block with the engine in the car, but would be easier with the engine out.
Is it worth taking the heads off with the engine still in the car?
Is getting the engine out the next sensible option?

I know this is such an open-ended question, but are there any guide prices for a top end , bottom end and full rebuild?

Assuming the worst, and it needs a full or partial rebuild are there any good engine specialists around Leicester, or even national that I should be contacting or avoiding?

So far I have found or had the following recommendations.
  • Williams Brothers - Northampton
  • Andy Fanshaw - Chesterfield,
  • John Sleath Race Cars - Doncaster
  • Boost Performance - Nottingham
  • Lincolnshire Corvette - Grantham
  • JE Engineering - Lancashire


I have an excellent group of friends that can help get the engine out if needed, and between us we have enough skill to start stripping the engine down. I have access to a double cab truck and trailer so moving the engine and car is not too big a deal. However, rebuilding the engine correctly and any machining required is pushing our capability to its limits or beyond. Would an engine builder expect to see the engine as is before we take it apart?

I am open to sensible suggestions and advice.

Jeremy
 

teamzr1

Supporting vendor
  1. How about doing compression tests on the cylinders first and then leak down tests ?
  2. Hand crank the engine via crank bolt and listen to the valve train
  3. Pull spark plugs to check color and tips
  4. Take valve covers off and look for any damage to rockers to down to the lifters
  5. Take dist cap off, turn engine over and see if rotor tip is pointing to number 1 cylinder when on top of stroke
 

Roscobbc

Moderator
I've been 'there' Jeremy and had a couple of engine 'blow-ups' on my '68 BB over the years so perhaps can give a few pointers.
Before taking anything apart first turn the engine over on the starter once more (ignition disconnected) for perhaps 10/15 seconds and see if you have oil pressure.
If so what is it? - is it less than before? - can you hear the rattle now?
Dare you risk starting the engine? - what is the oil pressure doing? if it starts ok and runs can you identify where the tapping noise is eminating from? - a long handled screwdriver resting on the surface where the noise is coming from and held against your ear might give more of a clue.
Is the tapping noise coming from directly under a rocker cover or lower down on the engine? - is it firing on all eight cylinders? If so (and after removing respective rocker cover) and turning the engine over on the starter can you see an issue here with the valve actuation?
No clues yet? - the reduction of oil pressure (and the rattle) could mean a failed big-end (or pair of big end) bearings.
Zero oil pressure could mean a fractured oil pump drive shaft (its happened to me!)
To inspect the bottom end the oil will need draining (any metal particles mixed with the oil?) and the oil pan removed. Cutting the oil filter open is there metal fragments in it?
You'll need to jack the front of the car-up and disconnect the steering linkage one side to 'fiddle' the oil pan out from underneath the engine.
Visual/physical inspection of the four big end 'pairs' should confirm if an 'end' has failed.
Have you access to a bore scope so you can take a look inside the respective cylinders?
 

Oneball

CCCUK Member
Yes I’d pull the rocker covers and look inside and pull the plugs too and see what each one looks like. You’ve already confirmed it’s not seized or broken a rod as you’d have noticed that turning it over.

If you can strip an engine, you can rebuild it and get a machine shop to do the machining and balancing. You don’t need an engine builder.
 

Chuffer

CCCUK Member
Sorry to hear about your worrying experience but good to hear you had great service from the recovery with Classic Line as I am insured with them . In the worst case scenario and you do need professional help I can definitely recommend Williams Brothers at Bugbrooke , Northamptonshire . Good luck . 🤞
 

MilkyNoSugar

CCCUK Member
I did some investigation today. So far nothing looks drastically bad, which is good but slightly confusing.

Removed number 1 plug. Checked the cylinder with a boroscope and it looked ok other than a bit of oil on top of the piston. (completely untrained eye though) . Rotated the engine to get the piston to the top and checked the distributor and confirmed that the rotor arm was also pointing at 1. This suggests the timing bottom to top end is still connected correctly via the timing gears.

Checked a couple of other cylinders with the scope and they looked the same.

Managed to break a spark plug that the garage must have put in with a breaker bar. I need to get some replacements. It had Champion RV17 YC plugs in it. Are these the best ones to use. They few I removed were all brown which I think suggests it is running cold or rich, which does tie in with it smelling quite rich and over fueled recently.

PXL_20240727_154351054.jpgPXL_20240727_154402886.jpg

Rotated the engine by hand and it felt free.


Disconnected the coil lead and turned the engine over for about 15 seconds on the starter - oil pressure rose steadily to around 35.


Removed the rocker covers and a visual inspection shows it looked ok, but the rocker arms on cylinders 1 and 3 felt very loose compared to all the others when they were unloaded.PXL_20240727_155248701.jpgPXL_20240727_161150466.jpg


Could this just be a case of very loose rocker arms????

I have put everything back together for now as it started to rain and I was running out of time. I will get some new plugs and have another go at it later in the week.
 

Chuffer

CCCUK Member
Do you have solid lifters or hydraulic ? The pre load needs to be set correctly on Hydraulic lifters .
 

teamzr1

Supporting vendor
Stock sparkplug type as per GM engineering for 1972 with 454 CI
Check type and gap on ones in now and torque shown when installing


72454plugs.jpg


If you doubt, cyls #1 & 3
maybe take rockers off, check pushrods not bent or ends flattened out or
stuck/collapsed lifters
 

Roscobbc

Moderator
TBH don't think plug electrodes are too bad a colour - yes, you have a fair bit of carbon build-up further down the plug (and probaly worse right down inside......get it on mine - typical of urban usage - ACR44T might be difficult to source - NGK's are perhaps easier here in the UK? - interesting that you have a hydroboost unit installed (instead of conventional vacuum brake servo)
Question - how many miles has the engine done since someone touched the valves or had rocker covers off?
 

Forrest Gump

CCCUK regional rep
It’s unlikely you would all of a sudden get loose rocker arms on two cylinders to cause the noise that worsened so quickly. They might need a tweak of adjustment but can’t imagine these are the main problem.
Having done your initial checks I’d be inclined to fire it up, it’s really difficult to know where a noise was coming from when you’re driving. Could even be one of the ancillaries, or flywheel area.
You mention you’d had a new air intake …intake manifold I assume? Is it possible something got left inside the valley!
 

Roscobbc

Moderator
It’s unlikely you would all of a sudden get loose rocker arms on two cylinders to cause the noise that worsened so quickly. They might need a tweak of adjustment but can’t imagine these are the main problem.
Having done your initial checks I’d be inclined to fire it up, it’s really difficult to know where a noise was coming from when you’re driving. Could even be one of the ancillaries, or flywheel area.
You mention you’d had a new air intake …intake manifold I assume? Is it possible something got left inside the valley!
P1000162.jpg

I 'lost' my favourite 7/16"/1/2" open ender strangly went missing after installing my then new engine..........a subsquent unassociated strip-down a coupe of years or so later and it strangely appeared......it had been hiding quietly in the lifter gallery............





P1000163.jpg
 

MilkyNoSugar

CCCUK Member
Thanks for all the input. Really appreciate it.


Q : Question - how many miles has the engine done since someone touched the valves or had rocker covers off?
A: Honestly no idea, but it has been serviced twice in just over a year - I assume now, that valve clearances are not part of that process. I will check and set them myself.

Comment : Gap also looks too wide
A : the plugs were fitted by a recommended specialist so I would have expected them to be ok. I will fit the next set myself.

Q: You mention you’d had a new air intake …intake manifold I assume? Is it possible something got left inside the valley!
A: Yes, I had an upgraded intake manifold, new carb and filter fitted. It is not impossible that something got left behind.


Just trying to find suitable plugs available tomorrow or early in the week so I can fire it up after I have adjusted the clearances.
 

Forrest Gump

CCCUK regional rep
I 'lost' my favourite 7/16"/1/2" open ender strangly went missing after installing my then new engine..........a subsquent unassociated strip-down a coupe of years or so later and it strangely appeared......it had been hiding quietly in the lifter gallery............
I wasn’t going to mention that bud😆😆
…..If you get a problem soon after you’ve had some work done, you wonder if there’s a connection.
 

MilkyNoSugar

CCCUK Member
This morning I replaced the broken plug and adjusted lash in the rocker arms.

The good news is that it starts ok, probably better than before and at least one of the noises has gone.

The main noise is still there though, so further investigation needed.

I will edit the video I have taken and try and upload that later.
 

Roscobbc

Moderator
This morning I replaced the broken plug and adjusted lash in the rocker arms.

The good news is that it starts ok, probably better than before and at least one of the noises has gone.

The main noise is still there though, so further investigation needed.

I will edit the video I have taken and try and upload that later.
Is that oil pressure indicating low?
 
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