Daytona Vette
Well-known user
I am running upgraded Philips halogen in all four headlights which are Cibie (hopefully better) so all four on main beam and ditto on low beam, but two relays are required to protect the switch, one for each circuit
Exciting day - rebuild of 78 coupe
- Thread starter johng
- Start date
Forrest Gump
CCCUK regional rep
Engine oil?
James Vette
CCCUK Member
What a stunning view from your window!No chuffs , I have not had any more info on led h4’s other than some say the light beams are all over the place. . Have all the new switches in case it is that . But been busy bringing front of shed down to door hieght. Had a clearout ready to pull old shed down. Sold buggy and bike goes tuesday as the shed needs doors and floors which wont be cheap. The price of timber made my eyes water this week. All be worth it in the end tho
Chuffer
CCCUK Member
Yeah Mad4 , some do say that LED beams are bit random and it would interesting to know excactly what effect they have . Might be better than the bog standard lamps though or the threat of being plunged into darkness ! It must be a real wrench parting with the buggy and the bike but needs must I guess as prices of building materials are going through the roof , especially timber . Anyone would think it didn`t grow on trees ! 
But at least you will have a fab workshop / storage / man cave when it`s all finished .
But at least you will have a fab workshop / storage / man cave when it`s all finished .
johng
CCCUK Member
Made a start on adjusting my suspension geometry today. I'd done it roughly before I put the body back on, but I clearly had too much camber at the rear and I want to check everything else. Thought I'd start with something easy (rear camber) - took me all afternoon in the end!
First problem was I couldn't get a socket on the nut that locks the the cam bolt on the inner end of the strut rod. The rear spring is in the way. Had to get a 3/4" crows foot socket. Then I found why I had so much rear camber (3 degrees one side 3.5 the other), the nuts were not very tight. They must have worked loose as I know I torqued them when assembling the suspension.
I had to jack the rear end up to adjust the cam bolts. You are not supposed to torque up the nut until the suspension is back at ride height, so I lowered it back down to find that I hadn't adjust it far enough. After doing this a few times I realised that the cam bolts were turning everytime I lowered the car!! I decided to torque up the nuts before lowering the car, but then found that if I didn't hold the cam bolt in place it just turned as I torqued up the nut. Without a vehicle lift, there was no way I could hold the bolt and tighten the nut without taking off the wheel. So jack up the car, remove the wheel, adjust the bolt, torque the nut, put the wheel back on, lower the car and then find I was half a degree out so start again!!!!! All done now, but a little frustrating.
The reason you're supposed to torque the nut at ride height is to avoid pre-loading the rubber bush in the strut rod. Luckily I have poly bushes so this isn't a problem, but I don't know how you could do it with rubber bushes.
Now just got all the rest of the adjustments to do
First problem was I couldn't get a socket on the nut that locks the the cam bolt on the inner end of the strut rod. The rear spring is in the way. Had to get a 3/4" crows foot socket. Then I found why I had so much rear camber (3 degrees one side 3.5 the other), the nuts were not very tight. They must have worked loose as I know I torqued them when assembling the suspension.
I had to jack the rear end up to adjust the cam bolts. You are not supposed to torque up the nut until the suspension is back at ride height, so I lowered it back down to find that I hadn't adjust it far enough. After doing this a few times I realised that the cam bolts were turning everytime I lowered the car!! I decided to torque up the nuts before lowering the car, but then found that if I didn't hold the cam bolt in place it just turned as I torqued up the nut. Without a vehicle lift, there was no way I could hold the bolt and tighten the nut without taking off the wheel. So jack up the car, remove the wheel, adjust the bolt, torque the nut, put the wheel back on, lower the car and then find I was half a degree out so start again!!!!! All done now, but a little frustrating.
The reason you're supposed to torque the nut at ride height is to avoid pre-loading the rubber bush in the strut rod. Luckily I have poly bushes so this isn't a problem, but I don't know how you could do it with rubber bushes.
Now just got all the rest of the adjustments to do
Forrest Gump
CCCUK regional rep
I’ve had the same struggles as you John with stock strut rods being a pita to adjust and then finding they’ve moved after driving a few miles. I ditched them and fitted threaded strut rod. They are a doddle to adjust and don’t move.
Forrest Gump
CCCUK regional rep
Santa might as well order them now!
Old thread on the topic…
Old thread on the topic…
Negative camber on 72
Hi all , was hoping to lower my 72 a bit and introduce a bit of negative camber on the rear. Is this achieveable without buying adjustable rear links , has anyone done it , any pics of results 👍appreciated
www.corvetteclub.org.uk
Mad4slalom
Well-known user
If you add neg camber by adjusting the strut rods does that lower it ? Or is that done by adjusting the spring bolts , ( lengthening / loosening them ?)
will look at some adjustable strut rods
Forrest Gump
CCCUK regional rep
Although adjusting the ride height will alter the camber slightly depending on how much you lower / raise.
Mad4slalom
Well-known user
Mad4slalom
Well-known user
Coming together really nicely, I used to paint cars back in the early eighties, always a thrill laying on those first colour coats after all the hours of work filling , sanding , priming , flatting and masking. Bet you cant wait to get her back
kentvette
CCCUK Member
JohnMade a start on adjusting my suspension geometry today. I'd done it roughly before I put the body back on, but I clearly had too much camber at the rear and I want to check everything else. Thought I'd start with something easy (rear camber) - took me all afternoon in the end!
First problem was I couldn't get a socket on the nut that locks the the cam bolt on the inner end of the strut rod. The rear spring is in the way. Had to get a 3/4" crows foot socket. Then I found why I had so much rear camber (3 degrees one side 3.5 the other), the nuts were not very tight. They must have worked loose as I know I torqued them when assembling the suspension.
I had to jack the rear end up to adjust the cam bolts. You are not supposed to torque up the nut until the suspension is back at ride height, so I lowered it back down to find that I hadn't adjust it far enough. After doing this a few times I realised that the cam bolts were turning everytime I lowered the car!! I decided to torque up the nuts before lowering the car, but then found that if I didn't hold the cam bolt in place it just turned as I torqued up the nut. Without a vehicle lift, there was no way I could hold the bolt and tighten the nut without taking off the wheel. So jack up the car, remove the wheel, adjust the bolt, torque the nut, put the wheel back on, lower the car and then find I was half a degree out so start again!!!!! All done now, but a little frustrating.
The reason you're supposed to torque the nut at ride height is to avoid pre-loading the rubber bush in the strut rod. Luckily I have poly bushes so this isn't a problem, but I don't know how you could do it with rubber bushes.
Now just got all the rest of the adjustments to do
I feel your pain! The first time I did this was in the lock-up we used in West Malling - no power or light! But, I did buy an expensive ring spanner to deal with the nut and bolt heads of the cam. I found it juts a little easier with the spare wheel try out. But, last time I did it I put the car on ramps, so it was effectively on the ground, but in the air. That worked OK and when back on the "real" ground it was just at the point of negative camber on both sides. (I use a small spirit level on the wheel and like the "bubble" to be just touching one side of the marks)
I used a Gunson laser set to set the front toe, which worked surprisingly well, considering its a bit Heath Robinson in appearance! And I used a gauge to set caster and camber on the front, with a couple of pieces of vinyl floor tile (with grease in between) to allow the wheels to turn easier.
After I'd done the rear training arms I used a method outlined by a racing driver friend, to set up all 4 wheels, using two lengths of wood and fishing line. It took a while to set it up, and even longer for me to work out which shims I needed where, but in the end it worked a treat and the car is sooo much better!
johng
CCCUK Member
Andy, I've been thinking about this (always a bad idea!). Are you still using the original bracket on the diff with adjustment slots in it? If so, why don't the bolts still keep coming loose?