First C3 Vette and luvin it :)

Roscobbc

Moderator
Are the three threaded holes tapped in to the water gallery of the inlet manifold? - If so (and it will vary according to car application) one could be for temperature sensor - another could be connection to by-pass hose in top of water pump (if actually used) - the third one a 'spare'?
 

Waynio

CCCUK Member
Have you fired the engine up yet?

Apologies if I am telling you something you already know.

You may have read my Engine Issues thread. Having rebuilt the top end of the engine we fired it up for a few minutes, but clearly there was still something wrong and a new noise emerged as the engine started to warm up. We turned it off, checked a few bits and tried again, still the same so switched it off and pulled the engine out to send it to a specialist.

The new cam and followers are shot after no more than 10 mins running. The engine specialist said that as we had not been able to follow the correct start up procedure due to the con rod bearing failure, the cam and not been heat cycled and had worn prematurely. I think he said it should have been run with a high zinc based oil for 30 mins at 3500 rpm, then switched off to full cool down.

I would definitely make sure you know what the correct break in process is for the rebuilt engine before you fire it up.

Again, apologies if you know this already, but if I can save you knackering a brand new cam then it will be worth it.
In appreciate the thought although know there is a break in procedure ( not sure what it is though ) but this has only had original heads put back on and just new lifters. Saying that though i may be wrong in thinking as its just new lifters and rest is original, well but for the shiny parts, i dont need to do any break in for the lifters.
Do i ?
 

johng

CCCUK Member
So a question

The three outlets/inlets in the manifold near the thermostat. i know the one on the far left is for the heater core. What would i use the other three for. I am running straight carb.

The on thats at the back will be the one to the brake servo vaccum

View attachment 28960
On my car the middle one is for the EGR TVS switch as shown in the diagram and photo below. I don't have the one on the driver's side, but you could use it for an EFE TVS switch if you have that fitted still, otherwise as Ross says, it's a spare.
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APT.jpg
 

Waynio

CCCUK Member
Very impressed I am Captain Faffer !! A real credit to your skills , dedication and tenacity . (y)
Thanks kida. Not a good thing at times as i dont know when to stop haha. T has been out some days and told me to stop to get some food haha. I do love to Faff about though.

I reckon ill have it on the road before the due date. If you missed it tha is the 13/3/25. yes Friday 13th arrrr
 

Waynio

CCCUK Member
On my car the middle one is for the EGR TVS switch as shown in the diagram and photo below. I don't have the one on the driver's side, but you could use it for an EFE TVS switch if you have that fitted still, otherwise as Ross says, it's a spare.
View attachment 28962

View attachment 28963
Think have sussed it then, I can blank of the three i refer to. I just need a vac from the middle of the carb to a rocker cover. then blank the right hand one and the left hand one to the dizzy.

On the manifold the inlet/outlet on the rear to the brake servo vaccum.
 

Waynio

CCCUK Member
Are the three threaded holes tapped in to the water gallery of the inlet manifold? - If so (and it will vary according to car application) one could be for temperature sensor - another could be connection to by-pass hose in top of water pump (if actually used) - the third one a 'spare'?
sorry didnt notice your reply, buurrr with ill check
 

Chuffer

CCCUK Member
Thanks kida. Not a good thing at times as i dont know when to stop haha. T has been out some days and told me to stop to get some food haha. I do love to Faff about though.

I reckon ill have it on the road before the due date. If you missed it tha is the 13/3/25. yes Friday 13th arrrr
Good luck with that one then . Always over estimate and under deliver I say . :LOL:
 

Waynio

CCCUK Member
Are the three threaded holes tapped in to the water gallery of the inlet manifold? - If so (and it will vary according to car application) one could be for temperature sensor - another could be connection to by-pass hose in top of water pump (if actually used) - the third one a 'spare'?
yes all three are into the water gallery.

So i can blank them all off. just need the far left one for the heater core. I already have a temp sender. dont need a temp sensor.

thanks l :)

Oh yes all best to all for new year. i keep forgetting its new years eve.
 

Waynio

CCCUK Member
Good luck with that one then . Always over estimate and under deliver I say . :LOL:
Well to say all i need to do ( unless i get daft again ) , i have loads of time
I actually over estimated its finish date but its come quick still near done .


Fuel line needs fitting.
Fit radiator surround and radiator.
Wire and plumb up the engine,
 

MilkyNoSugar

CCCUK Member
In appreciate the thought although know there is a break in procedure ( not sure what it is though ) but this has only had original heads put back on and just new lifters. Saying that though i may be wrong in thinking as its just new lifters and rest is original, well but for the shiny parts, i dont need to do any break in for the lifters.
Do i ?
I strongly urge you to check with an engine specialist before you fire it up - I am not an expert and learning as I go. It would be a hell of a shame to bugger it up given all the work you are doing.

It was the new Comp Cams cam followers (lifters) that took the real battering apparently in my engine - damaged beyond all hope of re-use in less than 10 mins. The new Comp Cams cam lobes were worn prematurely as well and possibly might have been reusable with a grind.
 

CaptainK

CCCUK Member
Oh i have then days, make a big plan ( reason i dont do plans now ) then very little if anything gets done. Where are you anyway ?
I'm down in Somerset near Taunton.

I see you went for the same inlet manifold as me - Edelbrock Performer EPS. I have that and the 1406 carb on my 1968 C3. Most of my water attachments on the front of the EPS are blanked off. Just one on the passenger side goes off to somewhere I can't remember now. :ROFLMAO:
 

Waynio

CCCUK Member
I'm down in Somerset near Taunton.

I see you went for the same inlet manifold as me - Edelbrock Performer EPS. I have that and the 1406 carb on my 1968 C3. Most of my water attachments on the front of the EPS are blanked off. Just one on the passenger side goes off to somewhere I can't remember now. :ROFLMAO:

Passed there when i popped down to Redruth when i bought the Vette. So yes a bit far to pop over to faff about.

The only outlet i need...i think,. Is the far passenger side for the heater core. Which reminds me again i need a heater box for the engine bay. And the one at the back for the brake servo.

I didnt do much at all today. fitted the radiator once i made this fitting.

The end snapped off when i was removing the rad surround. So instead of trying to get the support bar off i made this adaptor.

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And while i was doing that i though why not make an fitting for the throttle cable to connect to the carb.

Please excuse the lathe work, broke all tips and cant find my fav tool. Didnt want to sharpen up my others. Works a treat though. nowt wrong with a bit of rough.

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So getting there of the final fiddly bits.

Haha, fiddly bits. i have decided to polish up these headers. this will be a couple days of a ob. Mite just do the bits you can see haha

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Next is to finish the radiator fittings. wire the elecy choke. tidy the engine bay wiring. oh sort fuel lines out. last fews bit. i keep saying that haha. to arrive from Summit as i ordered some wheel arch dust shields, bungs for the inlet manifold and the T bars for the valve covers. I need to decide on what HT lead clips i want to get, I was going to make some, may still do yet.
 

Forrest Gump

CCCUK regional rep
In appreciate the thought although know there is a break in procedure ( not sure what it is though ) but this has only had original heads put back on and just new lifters. Saying that though i may be wrong in thinking as its just new lifters and rest is original, well but for the shiny parts, i dont need to do any break in for the lifters.
Do i ?
I would definitely do a break-in procedure - as you have new followers.
2000 to 2500 rpm (vary it) for at least 20 minutes from the second you fire it up. Don’t let it idle at all or you risk damage. Get the oil pressure up with your pump primer tool first, then quickly get the dizzy back in and go for it. Tip some fuel into the carb bowls too so that you’re not turning the engine over much before it fires. Use high zinc (ZDDP) oil then dump that and the filter after the break-in. You’re probably aware you also need to use high zinc oil in the engine for normal running too -like Valvoline VR1. Btw Gearbox needs GL4. (not 4/5) if you’re changing that.
 

Waynio

CCCUK Member
I would definitely do a break-in procedure - as you have new followers.
2000 to 2500 rpm (vary it) for at least 20 minutes from the second you fire it up. Don’t let it idle at all or you risk damage. Get the oil pressure up with your pump primer tool first, then quickly get the dizzy back in and go for it. Tip some fuel into the carb bowls too so that you’re not turning the engine over much before it fires. Use high zinc (ZDDP) oil then dump that and the filter after the break-in. You’re probably aware you also need to use high zinc oil in the engine for normal running too -like Valvoline VR1. Btw Gearbox needs GL4. (not 4/5) if you’re changing that.
I will do exactly that and go with your suggestion. I look a round and see all sorts of do this, do that, they vary a lot, too much for me.
Is it ok to add Zinc additive to the oil i have put in already as that is/was the plan, ? For the run in ?


Neighbours are going to love me even `more` doing this on the drive lol. Ill do it a Friday afternoon i think. And fit the baffles in the side pipes ;)
 

Forrest Gump

CCCUK regional rep
I will do exactly that and go with your suggestion. I look a round and see all sorts of do this, do that, they vary a lot, too much for me.
Is it ok to add Zinc additive to the oil i have put in already as that is/was the plan, ? For the run in ?


Neighbours are going to love me even `more` doing this on the drive lol. Ill do it a Friday afternoon i think. And fit the baffles in the side pipes ;)
Yes to the zinc additive, assuming it’s something designed for the job like the Lucas Oil one.
What’s the matter with your neighbours - surely everyone likes the sound of a big V8?
As well as priming the carb, check of course you’ve got enough fuel in the tank to run it for the period!
Break in is easier if you’ve got a helper - they can sit in the car and keep the revs right while you check everything is okay in the engine bay and bat-off any neighbours.
 

CaptainK

CCCUK Member
Passed there when i popped down to Redruth when i bought the Vette. So yes a bit far to pop over to faff about.
Didn't know your Vette was from down that end of Cornwall - my folks live just a few miles from Redruth, and I was brought up around there.
 

Waynio

CCCUK Member
Yes to the zinc additive, assuming it’s something designed for the job like the Lucas Oil one.
What’s the matter with your neighbours - surely everyone likes the sound of a big V8?
As well as priming the carb, check of course you’ve got enough fuel in the tank to run it for the period!
Break in is easier if you’ve got a helper - they can sit in the car and keep the revs right while you check everything is okay in the engine bay and bat-off any neighbours.
I had`nt chosen an additive to go for, My local car shop does not sell it so i left it for now but as you mention Lucas, which i know is good stuff in most they do ill go for that.
I was only joking on the neighbours, there used to me by now after 20 years lol. If they dont like a real engine sound its tuff lol. There are a few now with the battery powered cars.
 

Waynio

CCCUK Member
Didn't know your Vette was from down that end of Cornwall - my folks live just a few miles from Redruth, and I was brought up around there.
Yes the chap had it for 12 years and imported it himself. He is a member on the Facebook group, but not on often, just when i put something on.
 

Waynio

CCCUK Member
Update time i think.
Today as i have been neglecting DILLIGAF i decided i had to get something done. We went away, for some god known mad moment to Blackpool for the weekend.

We got back yesterday and today io cracked on.
Just a few small bits at first to warm up. Fitted the bungs to the outlets in the inlet manifold that i dont need. And then polished what i could be bothered to polish on the headers and exhaust. i know i should of painted the bolt heads first and cleaned back the liquid PTFE on the Allen screws.

No pics but i lube`ed up the windows mechanism again. they work a lot better now.

It needed to be good height to get the headers back on. And beside that i had to remove the clutch mechanism to get the D/S header on. daft sod i didnt even thin of that when i fitted the mechanism.

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Its hard work this on your own but Jack came in handy so i could line up the header bolts..

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I do sort of wish i polished this area of the headers but it will be reat. there not coming out again to soon, unless i get new ones.

This hearer is so close to the clutch arm and as you can see its been fettled for the steering box.



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well one side of the exhaust is on. i need to bolt them on properly as i cant find the rubber bushes for the exhausts.

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And i final polish, and blank off the Lamber sensor hole. ill weld it maybe later as its bugging me. can do it in situ.


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Ill be making an exhaust cover for it from spread tow carbon fibre when i get around to it. i am looking for Corvette in a foil type material as ill imbed that in the hi temp epoxy resin ill be making the cover from.

Its all i did but enough, once other exhaust id fitted its all small jobs. i have got an ignition panel coming so i can run it in on my own. got a few more bits here to fit. then maybe when i get around to it ill fire the bugger up :) 20250113-163419.jpg

I wish spring would hurry up. these little jobs are getting tedious now. I am trying to spread them out so i have things to tinker with.

All thats got done is the other exhaust fitted. still need to sort the hanger bungs though. The Sway bar / ARB and i thought as i painted the fan ill see how it looks.

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I was trying to find one of the ARB bolts but then i remembered one had stripped and was bolted through. Only after searching all over for it.

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I only needed the power a steering lines from the pump to rack but as i got a full kit at a good price i fitted the lot. mite aswell while i am here. I have been saying that all along, the reason i have done all this. Oh While i am here. lol

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And as its near time to run it in and not wanting to put the blame on anybody else when it goes boom and blows a piston i made this up so i am in control myself.

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The last few bits, i hope anyway, are on there way, a bit of pipe work for the heater core, vac pipe connectors., HT lead holders. Oh and Lucas break in oil. Oh and reset the clutch a si had to remove all that mechanism to get the D/S header fitted.

There are a few thing i think are soiling the engine b ay, one being the brake servo. It needs removing and painted an a new chrome reservoir lid. Ill tidy the wires up when i know its running well. These can be tinker time jobs once running.

sooo close yet sooo far. 473839683_10236379314127791_5503555209719903326_n.jpg
 
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