In appreciate the thought although know there is a break in procedure ( not sure what it is though ) but this has only had original heads put back on and just new lifters. Saying that though i may be wrong in thinking as its just new lifters and rest is original, well but for the shiny parts, i dont need to do any break in for the lifters.Have you fired the engine up yet?
Apologies if I am telling you something you already know.
You may have read my Engine Issues thread. Having rebuilt the top end of the engine we fired it up for a few minutes, but clearly there was still something wrong and a new noise emerged as the engine started to warm up. We turned it off, checked a few bits and tried again, still the same so switched it off and pulled the engine out to send it to a specialist.
The new cam and followers are shot after no more than 10 mins running. The engine specialist said that as we had not been able to follow the correct start up procedure due to the con rod bearing failure, the cam and not been heat cycled and had worn prematurely. I think he said it should have been run with a high zinc based oil for 30 mins at 3500 rpm, then switched off to full cool down.
I would definitely make sure you know what the correct break in process is for the rebuilt engine before you fire it up.
Again, apologies if you know this already, but if I can save you knackering a brand new cam then it will be worth it.
On my car the middle one is for the EGR TVS switch as shown in the diagram and photo below. I don't have the one on the driver's side, but you could use it for an EFE TVS switch if you have that fitted still, otherwise as Ross says, it's a spare.So a question
The three outlets/inlets in the manifold near the thermostat. i know the one on the far left is for the heater core. What would i use the other three for. I am running straight carb.
The on thats at the back will be the one to the brake servo vaccum
View attachment 28960
Thanks kida. Not a good thing at times as i dont know when to stop haha. T has been out some days and told me to stop to get some food haha. I do love to Faff about though.Very impressed I am Captain Faffer !! A real credit to your skills , dedication and tenacity .
Think have sussed it then, I can blank of the three i refer to. I just need a vac from the middle of the carb to a rocker cover. then blank the right hand one and the left hand one to the dizzy.On my car the middle one is for the EGR TVS switch as shown in the diagram and photo below. I don't have the one on the driver's side, but you could use it for an EFE TVS switch if you have that fitted still, otherwise as Ross says, it's a spare.
View attachment 28962
View attachment 28963
sorry didnt notice your reply, buurrr with ill checkAre the three threaded holes tapped in to the water gallery of the inlet manifold? - If so (and it will vary according to car application) one could be for temperature sensor - another could be connection to by-pass hose in top of water pump (if actually used) - the third one a 'spare'?
Good luck with that one then . Always over estimate and under deliver I say .Thanks kida. Not a good thing at times as i dont know when to stop haha. T has been out some days and told me to stop to get some food haha. I do love to Faff about though.
I reckon ill have it on the road before the due date. If you missed it tha is the 13/3/25. yes Friday 13th arrrr
yes all three are into the water gallery.Are the three threaded holes tapped in to the water gallery of the inlet manifold? - If so (and it will vary according to car application) one could be for temperature sensor - another could be connection to by-pass hose in top of water pump (if actually used) - the third one a 'spare'?
Well to say all i need to do ( unless i get daft again ) , i have loads of timeGood luck with that one then . Always over estimate and under deliver I say .
I strongly urge you to check with an engine specialist before you fire it up - I am not an expert and learning as I go. It would be a hell of a shame to bugger it up given all the work you are doing.In appreciate the thought although know there is a break in procedure ( not sure what it is though ) but this has only had original heads put back on and just new lifters. Saying that though i may be wrong in thinking as its just new lifters and rest is original, well but for the shiny parts, i dont need to do any break in for the lifters.
Do i ?
I'm down in Somerset near Taunton.Oh i have then days, make a big plan ( reason i dont do plans now ) then very little if anything gets done. Where are you anyway ?
I'm down in Somerset near Taunton.
I see you went for the same inlet manifold as me - Edelbrock Performer EPS. I have that and the 1406 carb on my 1968 C3. Most of my water attachments on the front of the EPS are blanked off. Just one on the passenger side goes off to somewhere I can't remember now.
I would definitely do a break-in procedure - as you have new followers.In appreciate the thought although know there is a break in procedure ( not sure what it is though ) but this has only had original heads put back on and just new lifters. Saying that though i may be wrong in thinking as its just new lifters and rest is original, well but for the shiny parts, i dont need to do any break in for the lifters.
Do i ?
I will do exactly that and go with your suggestion. I look a round and see all sorts of do this, do that, they vary a lot, too much for me.I would definitely do a break-in procedure - as you have new followers.
2000 to 2500 rpm (vary it) for at least 20 minutes from the second you fire it up. Don’t let it idle at all or you risk damage. Get the oil pressure up with your pump primer tool first, then quickly get the dizzy back in and go for it. Tip some fuel into the carb bowls too so that you’re not turning the engine over much before it fires. Use high zinc (ZDDP) oil then dump that and the filter after the break-in. You’re probably aware you also need to use high zinc oil in the engine for normal running too -like Valvoline VR1. Btw Gearbox needs GL4. (not 4/5) if you’re changing that.
Yes to the zinc additive, assuming it’s something designed for the job like the Lucas Oil one.I will do exactly that and go with your suggestion. I look a round and see all sorts of do this, do that, they vary a lot, too much for me.
Is it ok to add Zinc additive to the oil i have put in already as that is/was the plan, ? For the run in ?
Neighbours are going to love me even `more` doing this on the drive lol. Ill do it a Friday afternoon i think. And fit the baffles in the side pipes
Didn't know your Vette was from down that end of Cornwall - my folks live just a few miles from Redruth, and I was brought up around there.Passed there when i popped down to Redruth when i bought the Vette. So yes a bit far to pop over to faff about.
I had`nt chosen an additive to go for, My local car shop does not sell it so i left it for now but as you mention Lucas, which i know is good stuff in most they do ill go for that.Yes to the zinc additive, assuming it’s something designed for the job like the Lucas Oil one.
What’s the matter with your neighbours - surely everyone likes the sound of a big V8?
As well as priming the carb, check of course you’ve got enough fuel in the tank to run it for the period!
Break in is easier if you’ve got a helper - they can sit in the car and keep the revs right while you check everything is okay in the engine bay and bat-off any neighbours.
Yes the chap had it for 12 years and imported it himself. He is a member on the Facebook group, but not on often, just when i put something on.Didn't know your Vette was from down that end of Cornwall - my folks live just a few miles from Redruth, and I was brought up around there.